Lockdown in Freetown (Part 1)

Last light: 1849 hrs
Time start: 1720 hrs
Time finish: 1801 hrs
Weather: 27C
Humidity: 79%  
Circumstances: Ebola Crisis: 3-day lockdown in the Radisson Blu Mammy Yoko Hotel, Freetown

'Lockdown in Freetown', a catchy line. Could be a movie title. The genre would be horror. That's what's happening here.  

I've been running around the inside perimeter of the hotel grounds. That's my run for you today. However, and more importantly, I'd like to provide you some perspective on what's happening here on the ground with the curse of Ebola. 

The run? The army teaches one how you can train anywhere. I've worked out a circuit accordingly. Includes the internal and external fire escapes, press ups, burpees, and sprints in the tennis courts, and pushing hard on all steps and inclines. I've figured out a 10 minute circuit. Right, the aim is 4 times round. Forget about early morning for this one, late afternoon before sunset it is... 

A few posts ago (Post 19 - London) I first wrote about Ebola. That was 04th August. 47 days ago. Less than 7 weeks. At that point 729 people had died in Liberia, Guinea & Sierra Leone. The State of Emergency had also just been announced by President Koroma. The country at the time desperately needed help from the international community. It's been painfully slow to arrive.

47 days ago Ebola was a huge story. Since then its had to compete for column inches with other incredible news events. Such as the Islamic State group and beheadings of two US journalists and a British aid worker. The conflict in Ukraine continuing unabated with a death toll put at nearly 3,000. Malaysia Airlines flight MH17 being downed by a missile with the loss of 298 passengers and crew. Syria's civil war moving into year 4. Not to mention Israel / Gaza, Boko Haram and the kidnapped school girls in Northern Nigeria. Oh, and the Ice Bucket Challenge...

In the intervening 47 days the combined death toll has risen from 729 to over 2,500. Probably an underestimate. Medical systems have broken down completely. There's a severe shortage of everything - medical staff, clinics, beds, you name it. Ebola's now either out of control or close to being so. The net result of shortages means infected people cannot be treated, they infect others. Vicious circle. Initial media reports say 92 dead bodies have been collected during this lockdown. This was by last night (end day 2). The death toll in Sierra Leone has now passed 500.

There is hope. There has to be. The Security Council thankfully adopted a resolution this week declaring the Ebola virus a threat to international peace and security. The resolution was co-sponsored by 131 countries. Amazing. Finally the attention required and warranted. The UN is gearing up. Why so long? The US and British militaries are also gearing up. About time.  

Margaret Chan declared this week, "This is likely the greatest peacetime challenge that the United Nations and its agencies have ever faced." Margaret is director-general of the World Health Organisation. 

Posts 21 & 22 took place in Florida on family vacation. I'm now back to reality with a bump. Big time. Arrived back in Freetown Weds evening past. One night in my humble apartment then into hotel luxury for lockdown. Freetown is normally serviced by 47 flights a week, now there's only 5. We're being strangled. Last 2 carriers standing - SN Brussels & Royal Air Maroc. You can't begin to imagine the devastation this isolation is having on the economy. 

Most affected, as always, are the poor in what's an already extremely poor country. No safety net here. Most people hustle to make their 5,000 Leones a day. This means you barely survive. You can eat. Le 5,000 isn't much more than $1. If you're fortunate to have a half decent job, like my divas, you assist extended family and others. Sierra Leone diaspora will also be sending money back to help. This a cash based economy, money has to circulate. It's not. The result. Suffering.

Hey divas, you have great jobs, not half decent ones. I'm asked a great deal about the divas, since this blog began in late Jan this year. They're both fine and keeping well. Normally, there's massive hugs when I return. Not these days. No one touches anyone else. We have many creative West African style handshakes in Sierra Leone. Not these days. We touch right elbows at the moment for some strange reason. There is another exception. Ex-pats. As you may know, in Anglo Saxon culture we're not generally the most tactile of people. Unlike Southern Europeans and Latinos where any excuse will do for bodily contact. There is an exception of course. Anglo Saxons generally like a drink or two in a crisis (or any time for that matter). Reserve goes out of the window. We had an enjoyable evening of Texas Holdem last night with a whisky or two. Yep, later we all became like those soppy Southern Europeans. This morning all back to normal. We really should be more careful in these precarious times...

There's still some humour around in this misery. Funny incident last week on Air Maroc. The headline; 'Former minister Barry Andrews was among four Irish people left "shocked" after an Ebola scare on a flight out of West Africa'. 

Apparently the cabin crew suddenly donned protective suits and masks in belief one of the passengers had Ebola. They 'isolated' some poor soul with a temperature in the toilets. I say funny, maybe not if you're a passenger watching this drama unfold. There was no protective anything for the shocked passengers. 

Last week the 'super' police here (OSD) were seen in 2 trucks with their normal blue fatigues on, but also wearing brightly coloured marigold washing up gloves. There's still the odd chuckle.

I usually try to keep these posts to around 1,000 words, this time I'm only half way through my list of prompts and I'm past that total. This means, to be continued... I haven't even started the run yet...

Moreover, this hotel building has a fantastic history I want to write about. The 3 days in here have been funny and surreal in equal measure. For British readers think, Hi De Hi & Maplins. The only activity we haven't had is bingo. So for now only Part 1, (second installment later this week)...

'Early Morning Run in... Naples, Florida'

This morning Collier County. Gator country. Naples to be precise. Early start. Needs to be. Damn hot. So, without further ado, let me introduce todays special guest runner. The family second in command. It's 'O'. Could have been 'O Dear'. 'O' is for Organiser. I can tell from emails that many are pleased 'O' is entering the blog. More a case of  'O' inserting herself. There's also some 'sister support' out there. For one night only...

Moreover, I sense a problem running with 'O'. In fact, I've been asked to sign an 'Agreement'. Never been faced with such censorship before. Terms? No photos, front or rear. No controlling the pace. No being treated like a military recruit. No references to body parts. Whatever that means. Oh, and a pre read before posting. As I say, for one night only...

Reveille, I mean the wake up call, 0620 hrs. Head west from The Charter Club. We've spent many vacations here down the years. A beautiful location. Past Landings Park. Turn down Broad Ave continuing west. Turn left on 3rd Street, run past the many fine restaurants; Sea Salt, Campellio's, & my personal favourite, Tommy Bahamas. Pace is pretty slow..., I mean steady enough, to 12th Ave - and one of the area's better-known landmarks. Naples Pier. Spectacular for sunsets, it oozes character. The pier sits beautifully as it proudly juts out into the Gulf of Mexico. Beaches are stunning, over 16 kms of pristine sands. However, my Freetown brothers and sisters, these beaches might be special, but not in the same league as the peninsula southeast of Freetown, Sierra Leone.

Naples Pier. This old relic has been here since 1888. Hurricanes and fire have ravaged the old girl over the years. This sturdy old wooden character reminds me fondly of my mother-in-law in some respects.

We jog down the pier past early morning fishermen. At a sitting area half way down there's a group of about 10 elderly folk with a huge thermos of coffee. You get the impression they meet here often, enjoying each other's company and discussing issues of the day. There's gentle laughter and camaraderie as we jog past.

This is one old town. In England Naples would be Bournemouth. Somewhere akin to God's waiting room. 42% of the residents here are apparently 65 years of age or older. Median age is 61 years. In fact, similiar stats to Hesket Newmarket, our home village, where the average age is 87.

We turnaround at the end of the pier. Lots of fishermen casting lines and cleaning fish. A single dolphin playing off the port side. At least I think it's a dolphin.

A little more about Naples. Population 20,000. One word stands out. Wealth. Stinking rich. One of the wealthiest cities in the United States, and the second highest proportion of millionaires per capita. Real estate is among the most expensive in the country, with houses for sale in excess of $40 million. Some of the most luxurious waterfront estates and condos in the world.

Coming, as I have, from West Africa is a contrast of epic proportions. Famous people who have property here include Bill Gates, Donald Trump, Bob Seger, and Buzz Aldrin. There's plenty of old money, as well as the current and retired captains of industry. For the younger folks...

"Knock knock."

"Who's there?"

"Don't mess about, Buzz. Who the (expletive) do you think it is?"

"Sorry Neil."

'O' is holding up pretty well as first light comes. Little pink around the gills maybe, but doing just fine. Some references to sore knees, hips and, "I'm not in the Army you know." I might need a lawyer...

Numerous joggers and cyclists out this morning. Everyone's incredibly friendly. After exiting the pier we head north along Gulf Boulevard. Turn right and head east on 5th Ave. Over half way. We're now in the heart of downtown Naples. 5th Ave South and 3rd Street, where we were earlier, is the shopping district. A mix of swanky restaurants, nice hotels, antique shops, art galleries, expensive fashion, realtors, financial institutions... and Starbucks.

Becoming warmer into the rising sun. 5th Ave is a pleasure to run down. I pause, take a few snaps and catch-up to 'O'. Jog to Tin City. An interesting area of Naples. More authentic. More bohemian. An indoor marketplace and the home for several charter and tour boats. Originally a 1920's clam shelling and oyster processing plant. Retains its quaint boardwalks and tin-topped buildings. No chain operations here. Even has a comedy club...

Over the road a sign for Naples Zoo at Caribbean Gardens. Took the young folks there yesterday. Frankly, not a great zoo. In fact, only had one animal. A dog. It was a Shitsu...

Turn right out of Tin City and set course for The Charter Club. 'O' is miraculously getting a second wind and pushing on now. We arrive back at the club house just after 0715 hrs. Resort still in bed. Feel virtous. Let's go and sit down by the pool and watch sunrise? I venture into the club and rustle up some much needed coffee. Radio is set on 'Gator Country 101.9 FM'. Two types of music in these parts. Country. The other. Western.

Pitch up a couple of chairs on the lawn by the pool. I might have stretched the parameters of the 'Agreement', but I've enjoyed this run and having 'O' along. Of course, she's by far the best guest runner to-date, no question... (another stipulation in the Agreement...). 'O', one more thing, what hairy legs you have...

Postscript: What and where next? I was due to return Freetown next week. Over the past days BA has extended the suspension of flights into Sierra Leone & Liberia until end 2014. Air France has also ceased operations. The death toll from Ebola has passed 1,500 according to WHO. Most experts believe the figure to be far higher. Business has largely collapsed and regional travel all but impossible. So, see you back in Freetown...

Divas, cheesy I know, but, let's pray for the rainbow after the storm (from Tin City a few days back).

Additional postscript: 'O' wanted me to mention this was her first run for..., ah forget that, he who holds the pen...

'Early Morning Run In... Tesano, Ghana'

First light: 0553 hrs
Time start: 0615 hrs
Time finish: 0708 hrs
Weather: 23C
Humidity: 78%
Circumstances: Thursday morning, business day, neighbourhood run & gym

No Victoria Falls. No Livingstone. No Harare. No Mugabe jokes. No running over Nelson Mandela Bridge. No Joburg. No guest runners.

Something different. A run with no 'sights', no outstanding history, or any real points of interest. An ordinary run, with ordinary people, in an ordinary neighbourhood. In fact, ordinary as it gets. Real life. I'm in Tesano. Ghana.

Different to Post 4, 'An Early Morning Run In Accra...' back 25th Feb this year. Plenty of other back reading including, Sierra Leone, Liberia, Senegal, Colombia, Guinea, London, and the unforgettable Hesket Newmarket... same link: www.roadrunnertns.blogspot.com

Other bits and photos: @roadrunnertns

Talking of photos. Some have mentioned including photos. Most requests being from ex army shipmates who I know have difficulty reading and much prefer pictures. Slaps - these are for you. Vic Falls from the road trip.

Today a short notice business trip to Ghana. Arrived back Freetown only last Friday following the memorable road trip to Southern Africa. JoBurg being the last post before Florida vacation next month - which should see posts from Orlando, Naples & Miami. Any potential guest runners / guides in these locales perhaps?

Tesano a residential area in west Accra between North Kaneshie & Achimota. Suburb was first inhabited by Lebanese who came for business. The origin, or so I'm told, means 'on a flat flat rock'. Anywhere where the Lebanese don't go? Must be the largest diaspora in the world relative to size.

Downtown Accra can be 20 mins away or 2 hours depending on time of day and traffic. My base is the Charleston Hotel. Excellent establishment with super management and staff. Great value and deservedly right up there on Trip Advisor. Thanks Julie and your wonderful team. See you later in the year. Here we go, let's take a look at Tesano...

Feeling good this morning. Smiling, thinking, plus good not having 'Lifeline' slowing me down. Turn right out of the hotel, of course head east into the rising sun. Beautiful morning. 23C already. The neighbourhood is waking slowly, hardly anyone around. No cars on these un-tarred minor roads. Great for running. The area is flat. Roads are a mixture of compacted sand and gravel. Favourite surface to run. You can hear each step as your shoe bites on the surface. A distinctive sound.

A few people now on the move, everyone cheerful, most say good morning or wave. Run past the impressive Tesano Baptist Church. Don't know the street names. No signs. There's the Tesano Sports Club. I'm aiming to finish here to squeeze a quick 20 mins in their gym. Neighbourhood has everything.

Push on heading north to a main road. Good pace this morning. The time spent at altitiude in Southern Africa perhaps. A road with more activity. More traffic, most probably heading for downtown Accra. Divas note, I kid you not, every second shop is a hair & nails salon. I know from my own SL divas that hair in West Africa is vitally important. Well, not in senior divas case - she remember is bald as a badgers bum. A distinctive West African look. First time I saw senior diva in a W. I. G. (don't ever say the word), it was a shock. She just popped it out of a bag and stuck it on her head to attend a funeral. She needed it to keep her hat on. Not only Whisky India Golf, there's also W. E. A. V. E (don't ever say the word), hair extensions I guess. Like I say, hair and nails is serious business.

On this mini high street there's a local Spar / 7-11 type shop. I ask Grace if she minds I take a quick snap with my phone. She smiles and says of course. Ghanaians are friendly. Over the road the local pub. Some pleasant smells around too, sweet coffee brewing, fresh bread... time to head back to the gym.

As I head back into the minor roads there's more activity. Plenty of children walking to school in small groups, all carrying books and wearing distinctive bright simple uniforms. Walking without adults, and some are young. A great deal of laughter and joy. These kids are happy. Then a bizarre sight, a policeman with a speed camera. I don't see any cars on these interior roads.

In southern Sudan a few years back I was traveling by vehicle in the oilfield areas between Heglig and Bentiu. The oilfield police waved me down which was strange. Mohammed, who I knew, said sorry Mr. Mark you are speeding. He waved his new toy through the window. He smiled broadly. It showed 84 kms. 4 kms over the speed limit. Bear in mind at the time there was a civil war. During my time 4 drilling rig attacks by SPLA rebels, a camp attack on the main oil facility, pipelines blown up, a helicopter shot at, landmines laid on the roads, and plenty of other incidents besides.

I asked Mohammed when did he get this new piece of equipment. The day before he replied. I told him his new machine could not be working correctly. I was not driving that fast. He just looked at me. Explains he must fine me the equivilant of $5 and give my name to the camp boss. Told him I had an idea. I would drive back and come down the road again to check his machine was indeed working properly. I pulled up next to him a second time. He looked puzzled. The machine showed 70 kms. There you go I said, the machine wasn't calibrated properly. Continued on my way. Pretty poor that - purchasing faulty equipment. Lucky for me though...

As I write about Sudan I think fleetingly about many ex colleagues and friends there, Mahmoud D. in particular. At this time of the year - Ramadan Kareem.

Head back onto the un-tarred roads, pick up the pace back to the sports club. They welcome me. I'm able to sign in as a guest from the hotel. Sly, who has arms bigger than my thighs, provides a quick brief. Just time for one quick exercise on each muscle group and a few abby dabby doobies. Jog back to the hotel as a cool down. I'm ready for the day.

Ready for eggs and coffee too. I have Samuel rebooked (post 4) as taxi driver for my downtown meetings. You may remember Samuel from the Accra post. Want to check back with him on the World Cup and the Ghana team, for which things ended rather ignominiously. Mind you, for all their travails they were the one team that come closest to beating Germany (WC Final later today). One of the best games, before the Ghanaians imploded into politics.

Footnote - I take breakfast with 'Good Morning Ghana' on in the background. Callers ringing in complaining about everything. All West African countries complain to some extent. Ghana takes to a whole new level. Everything is the governments fault. One caller says she had no light (meaning electricity) for 2 hours last evening. What was the government doing? I wanted to phone in and say come to Freetown for a week, you'll soon realise you've nothing to complain about. Ghana is a great country, extremely friendly hospitable people. However, they sure know how to whine.

Reminds me of another line from the Sudan days. Canadian expats. What's the difference between a Canadian expat and a jet engine? Eventually the jet engine stops whining....sorry to my Canuck friends...

A Sunday afternoon pleasure in Freetown writing this one, which I hadn't planned. This is wet season. Non-stop torrential rain outside, mixed in with incredible thunder and lightning. Pure fury. Another 3 months of wet season. 6 hours today and counting. Will be havoc outside - damage, mud slides, overflowing storm drains, blocked roads, trees down. Unrelenting...

Afternoons like this? Bunker down, fresh coffee, family size Toblerone from the fridge, a good book and perhaps a little writing. DSTV has gone down - phone the Ghanaian government...

Unless anything unexpected comes up - on to Florida next month...

Updates on Twitter: @roadrunnertns

'Early Morning Run in... Johannesburg'

Next stop Johannesburg. Northeastern South Africa. Population 3 million.

Let's begin with a chuckle. A joke not included in the three previous Zimbabwe posts. Barack Obama and David Cameron and Robert Mugabe are in a boat in the Atlantic, when suddenly the ship develops a leak. They have only one life jacket. Obama says, "Let's do the democratic thing. Take a vote to see who has the life jacket." They each write a name on a piece of paper and stuff it in a coffee can. Obama and Cameron have one vote each; Mugabe gets six.

A short pleasant flight from Harare yesterday. 'Lifeline' hires a Noddy car at the airport. Also a GPS. Essential to stay in the right areas. We won't be outrunning anything in Noddy.

The final post in this 2014 mini-series from Southern Africa. The trip has taken in Harare, Victoria Falls, and Bulawayo. Today Johannesburg completes an unforgettable road trip. 'Lifeline' is the guest runner for the 4th time.

The Joburg base is a private home in Westcliff. An extremely affluent suburb with views over the inner city and northern suburbs. Another guest to introduce. Meet 'Granite'.

Last evening was a wonderful one of African hospitality. Plenty of high quality South African wine quaffed. We enjoy a spirited conversation on a wide range of subjects, including: Andy Murray, his pushy mother, the World Cup, guilt or otherwise of Oscar P, Kevin Pietersen's sacking by England, Nelson Mandela, cricket, African politics, and Matt Damon's unsuitability, being a short arse, to play a back row rugby legend in the movie 'Invictus'. A lively evening...

Oh, not to forget, some planning for today's early morning run. You know it's a good evening when the run slides by an hour.

'Granite' kindly offers to drop 'Lifeline' and I downtown. We'll run back to Westcliff taking in some sights. Oh, forgot to mention the nibbles last evening. Biltong. The Boer used biltong during the war of the late 1800s. Food for travel (longlasting), and food for war (protein). Some say South Africans like only two things more than sunny skies and rugby. That's biltong & beer. This beautifully dried cured meat with a salty texture is perfect with cold beer. I'm hooked.

In amongst the fine wine I missed the briefing about the internal house alarm. Crime is a serious consideration in Joburg. Granite had said, "if nature calls at 0500 hrs use the guest suite's en-suite bathroom. Don't open the wrong door into the main house."

Sorry to everyone for the earlier than expected alarm.

0650 hrs. Glass of water. Quick laugh about the idiot who woke the whole house up two hours earlier. Into Granite's car. We're in the traffic flow to downtown before 0700 hrs. Jan Smuts Avenue is busy. 15 minutes later we're dropped in Newtown. A well-known cultural district, a bohemian feel with restaurants, museums, jazz clubs, theatres...

We quickly establish our bearings and run north to cross Nelson Mandela Bridge (below). It's cold. We feel the altitude for the first ten minutes. In two weeks is Nelson Mandela Day (18th July), his birthdate. He'd have been 96 years old. The great statesman and icon passed away 5-Dec 2013. So many quotes, I'll go with this one, "I am fundamentally an optimist. Whether that comes from nature or nurture, I cannot say. Part of being optimistic is keeping one’s head pointed toward the sun, one’s feet moving forward. There were many dark moments when my faith in humanity was sorely tested, but I would not and could not give myself up to despair. That way lays defeat and death."

This year also marks 20 years since South African gained full democracy from white minority rule. Apartheid was over in 1994.

Another guest runner appears. We're joined by a local lecturer for a few hundred metres, jogging alongside in his street clothes no less. A fantastic smile on his face. Thankfully we turn and head east up Ameshoff Street. He was the flying lecturer. He could move. We settle back into a steady groove up Constitution Hill.

Joburg theatre to the left. Now renamed after Nelson Mandela.  The giant billboard advertises Peter Pan opening in November. 'Second to the right, and straight on till morning'. Peter told Wendy this was the way to Neverland. A land of fairies. We're in South Africa. Haven't seen any fairies yet.

For us, it's first to the right and straight up Constitution Hill. Continue climbing Joubert Street.

Constitution Hill. What a view. Worth the ascent. We run straight into the Old Fort, first built in 1893. All happened right here, folks. It's more than the site of South Africa's Constitutional Court. There's some stunning modern architecture on this 100-acre site. This former prison complex held Gandhi, Luthuli, and Mandela (all Nobel Prize Winners), amongst numerous others. His 27 years in jail began right here.

We run a slow circuit of the raised fort perimeter. A high vantage point to see Joburg. Pause. Take a few snaps. Over to the east is Hillbrow. This suburb is more associated with crime than anything else. A hard area, even the Rottweilers, go around in pairs.

We work our way down from the high ground. Plenty of cheery bonhomie from those on foot also thumbs up from some drivers. I detect we're something of an oddity. Perhaps not a well known early morning running route? Down from the high ground onto Empire Road. Head west. Merge back onto Jan Smuts and begin heading north slightly uphill back to Westcliff. The training for Vic Falls paid off.

Run past our base - one more thing to do. 'The Steps'. 300m run down. Turn at the bottom and push back to the top as hard as possible. A final jog around Westcliff to warm down.

Here ends a beautiful road trip. Johannesburg has been fantastic for 36 hours; I want to return. A hearty thank you to 'Lifeline' and to all we've met along the way.

P.S. Thanks to 'Granite' for a bumper pack of Biltong for my hand luggage. I'm both savouring and rationing it...

'Early Morning Run in... Bulawayo'

First light: 0632 hrs
Time start: 0710 hrs
Time finish: 0802 hrs
Weather: 8C
Humidity: 36%
Altitude: 4,300ft
Circumstances: Tuesday morning, business day, downtown Bulawayo

Difficult to swap one of the seven wonders of the world for an industrial city in the hinterland of Zimbabwe. But, here we are in Matabeleland.

Yesterday drove southeast 4 and a half hours to Bulawayo. 435 kms. Second largest city in Zimbabwe. Population 650,000. Unsure what to expect...

'Lifeline' books us into the Bulawayo Club. Founded in 1895. Hidden gem on corner 4th Street & 8th Avenue. Old fashioned colonial elegant building steeped in history. Built in 1935, like staying in a museum. Throwback to another era, another time. The club has been lovingly maintained, great credit to the excellent management and staff.

Get straight into it this morning. Chilly. Let's go. 'Lifeline' needs no introduction. First guest runner to appear twice, now for the hat-trick. Out the front door, first run with little to no research. Which way? If in doubt always head east towards the rising sun. Something will turn-up. Altitude around 4,300 ft. Can feel a good run coming on.

Straight over the robots at the crossroads. Prominent statue of the late Vice-President Joshua Nkomo’s to my left. Died in 1999, accorded national hero status.

Might be early, but lots of activity. Street corners seem gathering places. Piles of newspapers on the ground with stones weighted on top. People glancing at the headlines. Glance down myself to see what's happening. People are wrapped against the chill. Some smoking and standing in small groups. These are people without jobs. Many of them. Others hurry about their business. Shops here open early, most by 0800 hrs.

Downtown Bulawayo seems shabby but functional. Well laid out but deteriorating. 'Lifeline' is moving awkwardly following his exertions in the half marathon 48 hours previously. City Hall ahead. Building looks good with neat lawns. Traders setting up using the freshly painted blue railings to display local art, usual African bric a brac, and an impressive array of fresh flowers.

Turn, still heading east, onto L.Takawira Ave. A straight road signposted Cairo 3,500 miles. On the other side of the roof another sign indicates Capetown 1,150 miles.

Run down the right side of L.Takawira. Traffic is light coming into town. Impressive park both sides of the road. Take a look at right half first. British and colonial in appearance reflecting the period when this green space was established. Bandstands, working fountains, memorials, and statues - some dating back to the Matabele Wars. Whilst the park may not be what it once was, I see park keepers at work. It's not being left to just rot. Crossover to the left side. More symbols of the past. Lakes, stream, a small gauge railway line, probably used to give youngsters rides. Many of the water features and streams are sadly overgrown. Imagine Bulawayo has higher priorities these days with public funds.

The park remains an area of tranquility, good to see young students sat in the old bandstand reading and studying. We see the National History Museum at the junction of Park Road. Opposite is the NGO, World Vision. Park Road is the best part of the city I've seen in the short time in town.

A little more on Bulawayo perhaps. Sits on a plain that marks the High-veld of Zimbabwe and close to the watershed between the Zambezi and Limpopo drainage basins. Twinned with Aberdeen, Scotland. I hear from home that my Scottish 'brothers' are enjoying England's rather quick World Cup exit. This has coincided with an uptick in their performances since wee Gordon Strachan took over. He said after they beat Iceland earlier this year, he was looking to arrange further games against... Walmart and Marks & Spencer.

Head north back towards the city noting the cricket academy. We circle the outfield also noting the Walnut Cafe for coffee later.

A broad smile as we run past the National Theatre. A big poster advertising, 'The Wizard of Oz', opening 30th July for 4 nights. Seems a little bizarre, but why not. I wish the production well. In fact, 'Lifeline' is doing a pretty good impression of 'Tin Man' this morning with his laboured running style, rounded off by his checked bermudas.

Right. Time to push on back to the Bulawayo Club and brekkie. Cross over R.Mugabe Way. Every town has at least one such road. Want to rename it, 'His Way or The Highway'. After this thought, which of course is a joke, it's past the Selbourne Hotel.

Heading west now, run past the Econet offices, one of the more impressive modern makeovers. Econet Wireless, a global business, was founded by its Chairman Strive Masiyiwa. Cell net coverage in Zimbabwe is excellent. My humble dealings with this company in Harare have been first rate. Mr. Masiywa is well known on the world business stage and demonstrates what can be achieved by Africa entrepreneurs. A Zimbabwean success story by any measure.

Arrive back to the Club. 52 minutes. One of the most enjoyable runs I've done. Enjoyed this one. Feel on a high. Later, after coffee at the Walnut and a discussion with locals, we realise can't head south to Rhodes grave, which was an original intent. Not enough time. Will take 3 hours there and back. Then due to roadworks another 7 hours to Harare. Too much night driving. Maybe after next years Vic Falls Half Marathon.

Rhodes is buried in the Matobo Hills. He died 1902, his body brought to Bulawayo by train. He and other early white pioneers like Leander Starr Jameson are buried at a site named World's View.

Well, that's all for this post. This amazing road trip concludes with a short visit to JoBurg. One more post to come... see you in South Africa...

Footnote: Following 7 hours back to Harare, last 2 hrs in the dark again, we come across the President's motorcade. Lots of vehicles (about 15), flashing lights, high speed maneuvers, and sirens. Local wags apparently refer to it as 'Bob And The Wailers'..., or so I'm told...

Breakfast in the club...

Victoria Falls Half Marathon

First light: 0635 hrs
Time start: 0715 hrs
Time finish: 0857 hrs
Weather: 12C
Humidity: 33%
Circumstances: 2014 Victoria Falls Half Marathon

"It has never been seen before by European eyes, but scenes so wonderful must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight." Livingstone's words in 1855. Difficult to better.

Not often you run one of the 7 wonders of the world. Not every day you run across Victoria Falls bridge into Zambia. Not every day you run through a cooling shower of mist rising from Devils Gorge. Not every day you run in a national park with armed wardens at elephant crossing points. Quite the event. Quite the run.

Arriving to the Falls was ...er, eventful. An arduous journey by vehicle. Distance 750 kms. 11 hours. Another late night of Harare hospitality meant a later than planned for departure. Moreover, the last 4 hours were driven after dark O clock. Not at all sensible. The risk of a chance encounter with Eddie the Elephant, or a host of other animals, increases significantly after last light. Great times at Amanzi's though.

0715 hrs. Race time. Field of around 700 for the half marathon. Tremendous atmosphere in town ahead of the start. With prize money down to 10th place a quality field was 
assembled. The full marathon set-off 45 minutes earlier at a speed I could barely sprint. To give you an idea of the quality of African athletes participating, the half marathon was won in under 65 mins. Mo Farah territory.

Perfect conditions today. Altitude feels fine after a few days in Zim. Low humidity and a pleasant temperature, together with a rising sun. Doesn't get much better.

Hooter sounds. Run north past the main entrance to Victoria Falls on the left. Through the customs post and into Zambia. A beautiful setting as the field stretches out over the 109 year old Victoria Falls bridge. When completed in 1905 it was the worlds largest cantilever construction. Cecil Rhodes had a vision of a railway line from the Cape to Cairo. A bridge was required over the Zambezi gorge. He died before it was completed. A true feat of engineering brilliance. These days more people throw themselves off the bridge than cross it.

People throw themselves off by bungee jump half way along the bridge. $135 to scare yourself senseless by plummeting 111m towards the Zambezi. What can possibly go wrong? Well, the cord snapped a couple of years back, miraculously the jumper survived. The world's press had a field day; crocodile infested waters, swept away by the rapids, the whole works. She managed to swim to the bank with her feet tied together and haul herself out with a broken collar bone and other injuries. She made a full recovery. Aussies are tough.

Funniest thing though was Zambia's tourism minister jumping a few days later to help assure the safety of the attraction. Bet he enjoyed that... Which British, US, Canadian, or Sierra Leonean Minister would you like to see hurtle towards the Zambezi to make a point? I'm trying to talk Lifeline into a tandem jump later this afternoon, we might be back later...

Run back across the bridge a second time and head towards the first water station at 5 kms. Plenty of runners taking selfies on the bridge. The amount of gear people run with these days is amazing. Music, headphones, head cameras, camera for the selfie, belt kits with water bottles and food, headbands, calve socks, huge watches... incredible... Suffice to say those Kenyans & Zims at the front of the field had no such paraphernalia.

I'm flying today, haven't run 5 kms at this speed for many a year. Go past 2 elephant crossing points. Huge elephant poo everywhere. Bigger poos than even yours Tea Cake. We see no elephants today.

Plenty of support on the road adds to the atmosphere. Lots of cars with stereos turned up full blaring out rock music. African drums playing incessantly in some of the lodges. All adds to the feel good factor.

Little more on Victoria Falls. Also known as 'Mosi oa-Tunya' (the smoke that thunders) is half way along the mighty Zambezi River. Africa's fourth largest at 2,700 kms (after Nile, Zaire and Niger respectively) and the only one that flows east into the Indian Ocean.​ Victoria Falls is approx 1,700m wide. It’s one and a half times wider than Niagara Falls, and twice the height, making it the biggest curtain of water in the world. My second time, it remains breathtaking.

Good time at 10 kms. Won't keep this pace up. 14 kms turn into the breeze. This is more realistic. More of a struggle now. At 16 kms going uphill. Pace now falling away quicker than the Iraqi army.

Last couple of kms. Final push. Can hear the music at the finishing point - Victoria Falls Primary School. Good turnout. Try to lift the pace for the last 400m around the grass track. Blow that. Just finish.

Waiting for Lifeline to finish. Teamwork. I head for breakfast, have a rub down, do some stretching, read the papers, have some coffee, hang on, ... quick, here he is...

In all seriousness, he's had a good run and extremely pleased with his time. Right, enough praise, into town for that big brekkie.

We've spent the previous 2 nights in a more humble lodge outside of town. Tonight is the reward. We book in the luxurious Victoria Falls Hotel. What a hotel. Expensive, even when sharing a twin room. Worth every cent though. Steeped in more than a 100 years of fascinating history. There's the Livingston Room, Stanley Room, a beautiful terrace for afternoon tea, and of course a bar with chilled glasses and cold Zambezi. Come on, we deserve it...

Photos and other bits on Twitter: @roadrunnertns

Roadshow now moves to Bulawayo tomorrow...

P.S. This post is dedicated to JH's 95 year old Mom in Canada. She was read the last post (Harare) and liked it. Apparently she's a tough critic... This is for you Mrs. H. I hope you enjoy it. Ask your son to tell you the story when he went down with malaria, following a trip to Kenya with me...

P.P.S. Divas, look busy. I'm back Friday...

'Early Morning Run in... Harare'

First light: 0626 hrs
Time start: 0708 hrs
Time finish: 0743 hrs
Weather: 7C
Humidity: 64%
Altitude: 3,000ft
Circumstances: Thursday morning, downtown Harare

Rather later than planned this morning. This owes a great deal to the fine Zimbabwean hospitality and friendship on display at 'Tin Roof' last evening. I'm certainly not a startled gazelle this morning. Please meet 'Lifeline'. He's my guest runner and guide. In fact, he's not exactly looking too spritely either.

We drive from the cottage in Chisipite to downtown, takes 10 mins. Lifeline is based here in Harare. Early disclaimer. The jokes are mine. The factual errors are his - to any Zimbabwean readers.

First up. President Robert Gabriel Mugabe. Mention him or not? Elephant in the blog? This is a regime, how can I put this, which doesn't take too kindly to 'publishing false news' (aka criticism). Can be a prisonable offense by all accounts. A mildly funny, non-political blog shouldn't be an issue. Right?

So mention him? Of course. Yes. Probably impossible to leave him out. For better or worse, he is Zimbabwe. Top banana for 34 years. July last year saw him begin his seventh term in office. Say what you like about him, and people say plenty, he’s still there. Seen them all off. An enduring political survivor. He won’t be joining us this morning though. I’ve heard he’s fit and trains regularly. It must work. 90 years old this year. Enjoys an old fashioned exercise regime, similar to Roy Hodgson’s, apparently shaped by his 11 years in prison. Mad Bob that is, not Mad Woy.

In 1980 Rhodesia became Zimbabwe. Zimba dza mabwe - Houses of Stone. Zimbabwe was colonised by Cecil John Rhodes in the late 1800s. The country was named Southern Rhodesia after him. More on Cecil when I get to Bulawayo.

I’ve been to Zim several times in the past. Longest was 3 months in 1995, a few shorter visits followed, last one in late 1999. Gap of 15 years. It’s wonderful to be back for this eagerly awaited trip.

Zimbabwe is a staggeringly beautiful country of 12 million people. All countries have history. Zim has in abundance, then some. A somewhat tumultuous past doesn't do the story justice.

We arrive and park at Harare Sports Club, the main cricket ground. Zimbabwe achieved test match status in 1992. They played their first match here against India. The past 22 years of cricket politics could fill a blog by itself. A case could be made the politics of the country and cricket are intertwined. Whatever the facts, Zimbabwe is coming back at test level after a self imposed exile, and they still manage to pull off the odd remarkable result in the one day format of the game. I wish them every success.

The cricket ground is beautifully appointed, sat next to the Harare Golf Club. Looks particularly good this morning with the sun rising up over the main stand. We set off at a gentle pace. This is about the sights, the feel, rather than training. Nothing now will make a difference to Sundays half marathon at Victoria Falls.

Begin heading east on Chancellor Ave. The bright sun takes the chill off this rather brisk morning. Compared to Freetown this is freezing. Many of the locals are dressed ready for the Antarctic. An African thing - there's some crazy headwear about. On the opposite side of the road is the President's residence, next door State House. Well armed guards dotted around the perimeter.

Head south along 7th ave. Traffic is fairly sparse and drives on the left. The business district awakes slowly. Downtown Harare is in good shape, a well organised grid system. Town planning at its best, back in the day. Nice looking park on the left. All roads are treelined.

7th Ave is interspersed with smaller roads and numerous crossroads. Most controlled by working robots (local name for traffic lights). Road names are a mixture of traditional colonists and prominent figures representing the struggle for independence. We cross Herbert Chitepo Ave, Livingstone Ave, Selous Ave, before turning right and heading west on Samola Machel Road. Samola Machel was a Mozambican military commander and leader of FRELIMO. He fought against the Portuguese which later lead to independence in 1975. The charismatic leader became Mozambique's first President. His wife Graca is a remarkable woman. 12 years after Samola's death, in a plane crash, she married Nelson Mandela in 1998. She was the first woman in the world to marry 2 Heads of State. She's still going strong, and the first African woman to become a British dame. This post isn't long enough to give justice to this incredible lady's achievements.

Easy pace this morning. A run where can you chat all the way. There's the 100 years old Meikles Hotel set back to the left, the ubiquitous Nandos on my right. Ah, the Reserve Bank of Zimbabwe. The bank is one of many impressive buildings in the downtown core. A few short years ago Zimbabwe officially had more millionaires than any other country. In fact, over 90% of the population was a millionaire. Unfortunately Zimbabwe's inflation was running at 231 million per cent in 2008.

The ban on foreign currency trading was lifted in early 2009. The ship stopped sinking. The US$ became, and remains the main currency. This is often referred to as Dollarisation. The problem is there's no change. No cents. Most prices are thus rounded up. Should change be required it's made up with bubblegum or a few sweets, or sometimes in coins of South African Rand. The local guy who made the gum apparently became a genuine millionaire as a result. Dragons Den would have passed on that one.

Talking of cents. Did you know the gangster rapper '50 Cent', or as they call him in Zimbabwe '$4 million dollars' was the country's favourite artist a few years back.

Whatever and wherever blame can be laid, it would seem Zimbabwe is recovering, or at least things have stopped getting worse. The economy remains under strain and money tight, but it's a million miles away from a failed state many might have you believe.

We dawdle west along Samola Machel, before heading north on Julius Nyerere Way. Some impressive buildings in this area. There's the Tourism Authority, which is a major source of foreign revenue. More on this from the Falls. Ahead is the ruling party's headquarters - Zanu pf. We've also seen impressive churches - 85% of Zimbabweans are Christian.

On the left is Harare Gardens, close to the Crowne Plaza Hotel. Plenty of greenery in the city. Head east now 4th Ave, before turning north for home. Back to the cricket ground. We walk on the pitch through an open gate for photos. Excellent run and just what the doctor ordered after last nights shenanigans.

Back in the vehicle. Decide to head to the 'Wild Geese' restaurant for breakfast. I know, what a life. 30 mins drive. A beautiful place in the most delightful grounds. Set-up a few years ago by the author of 'The Wild Geese'. Book became a second rate hammy late 70's mercenary movie full of wooden acting held together with a preposterous plot. One of those movies so bad that some consider it good. Even has something of a cult following. The signed photos on the wall evidence the good time the actors had making it - Richard Burton, Richard Harris, Roger Moore and others. They tried a remake in 2004. Another ridiculous script, 'The Wonga Plot'. This time an old Etonian, together with some South Africans, stop in Harare to buy weapons to overthrow a West African government for oil. Should have called have called it 'Wild Geese 2', perhaps why it ended so disastrously.

To Victoria Falls tomorrow...half marathon Sunday, Bulawayo Monday / Tuesday. 2 new posts coming up. JoBurg at the end of the week before returning to Freetown. See you all again real soon...

Photos and other bits on Twitter: @roadrunnertns