Saturday, 30 May 2015

'Early Morning Run... A Farewell to Arms'

Title? A nod to Hemingway. He also maintained keeping the first paragraph short.

The real title, 'Farewell to Talisman'. Later.

Remaining on Hemingway for a moment. He once made a bet claiming he could write a story in six words. On a restaurant napkin, he wrote, 'For Sale: Baby Shoes. Never Worn'. He collected his winnings.

My best effort. 15 words. 'Lost Dog: Missing one eye. Missing one leg. Neutered. Answers to the name of 'Lucky'. OK, not entirely in the same class.

'A Farewell to Talisman Energy'. 8-May 2015. The sale to Repsol finally closed. I haven't mentioned Talisman previously. 14 years service, until end 2013. A sad day to see such an excellent Canadian oil company being taken over. Not too many years ago; well, more likely the other way round.

So many memories. Some wonderful times. I learned so much coming from the British Army. I'd never had a real job. The Army is a laugh, an adventure, a journey, a vocation, with a few scary moments thrown in along the way. It turned out the oil sector was similar. OK, perhaps fewer laughs.

The real glory years lasted until a significant management upheaval in 2007, which afterwards began the slow descent towards, 'se vende'. I worked for, and alongside, many special people. Dr Jim Buckee, the CEO, led the company superbly. A group of people who represented the best of Canadian values at home, and overseas. My first posting with TLM was in Sudan. I lived in Khartoum more than four years (below, boat trip on the Nile). The most protracted ten years of my life. I later lived in Calgary for four years. A pleasure.


How do you get 43 drunk Canadians out of a swimming pool? Pause, 'please leave the pool'. That's why I love Canadians. The fact being, this old joke was like a badge of honour.

The final day three weeks ago rekindled many flashbacks.  Of Sudan mostly. Sudan was constant drama and the investment mired in controversy. The company had an early inkling of a bumpy ride ahead when a Cruise missile landed in Khartoum, courtesy of Bill Clinton. Some claimed the target was a chemical weapons factory. Others said a distraction over a certain dalliance in the Oval Office. An oil company Security Manager later commented, if the old warehouse near the Nile was a chemical weapons factory, then his backside was a fire engine.

However, throughout the company never wavered and always did the right thing. We all knew what the company stood for. We all knew the values. I was proud to work for them. TLM successfully defended a massive lawsuit, which ultimately went all the way to the US Supreme Court. Sudan saw four rig attacks by SPLA rebels, land-mines, helicopters shot at, an armed attack on the main field base camp (Les, get off the phone, take cover) and plenty more besides. In the words of Cpl Jones, there was a war on (below, Bentiu, southern Sudan, 2001).



The Army took me all around the world. TLM, on a second lap.

Below, the first visit to Kurdistan, May 2008, sadly a couple of years later several ex-pat sub-contractors died in a hotel fire in Sulaymaniyah.


Colombia saw 23 seismic sub-contractors kidnapped by FARC in 2010. Never a dull moment in overseas oil exploration (below, cocaine all around us, in its rawest form).


Peru, drilling in the Amazon.

Vietnam. Indonesia. Malaysia, Algeria. Papua New Guinea (below). Trinidad. Qatar. I worked them all, and others. These were the fun places. I haven't mentioned UK, Australia, Norway, the US & Canada. Dull in comparison.


My final piece of the Talisman story was a posting to Sierra Leone in Sept 2011 (below, testing out my 'jokes' for this blog in the southeast of the country). This posting first brought me to Freetown. After one dose of malaria too many I left TLM and co-founded a company here. Six months later; well, we were in the iron grip of Ebola. Those are the breaks.



Many former TLM folk read this blog, many of whom supported the 'Food Basket Appeal'. Canadians are amongst the most generous in the world. Many have, of course, left the company due to downsizing and the eventual sale, and are forging new careers. To those remaining with Repsol, especially you Frankie, I wish you all the best.

I've paused writing about Africa to provide this backstory. Back to the regular soap soon.

Africa? Last week a 'funny' story from Guinea. At an Ebola checkpoint, officials became suspicious of a fellow in a taxi. He was wearing a white shirt, jeans, hat and sunglasses. He was propped up among others. He wasn't saying much. He was dead. He'd died of Ebola. Others were illegally moving his body. They are now in quarantine for 21 days. Should they survive, they'll be charged and probably go to prison. I know this is no laughing matter, but...

Where next for the blog? Next Sunday, it's hello Dubai. A conference with a friend. The contrast will be immense. Only twice away from West Africa since Sept last year. I'm ready.

I hope my love of Africa comes through. But, and I have to tell you, while this love is all well and good; time in Dubai, can't wait...









Sunday, 17 May 2015

A Postcard From Ghana

"This bus go," said the Chinese fellow, "to Bintumani Hotel?" Presumably his first time in Sierra Leone. Perhaps his first time out of China. He looked worried. I said, "Bus take us to boat." He said, "This wrong bus, I go hotel. No boat." I explained we have to take a boat across the estuary. 30 minutes. Then taxi to the hotel. He said, "Wrong bus, I pay $40." I tell him we all paid the same. Thankfully an Indian fellow in a rather grand purple turban stepped in. "When I arrived in 1995 there was a war on, we had to be carried out to the boats on shoulders." Helpful? The Chinaman was utterly bemused. He sat with his bag tightly clenched between his raised knees and his folded arms. I tried to visualise this strange place through his eyes. Difficult. Freetown is complete madness... right up there on the barmy-ometer.

The crossing... entrance into Freetown.



Last Tuesday I arrived back to 'Dodge' from a terrific week in Ghana. The divas by now are fully prepared for me waxing lyrical about any other African country I've recently returned from. I normally race through a list of wondrous things I've witnessed. Traffic lights, power, buses, bus stops, power, pavements, pizza ovens, street lights, smooth roads, power... Actually, Senior Diva had to handle me by herself this time. Baby Diva has taken an extended vacation to visit family in the US. Baby D, we miss you. And to show just how much, this from a beach bar in Takoradi... made me think... Senior D on the right?




Then they glance at each other. You know the look the telling glance. The divas both see where this is heading. Yep, I continue; Accra, I could live there. Bingo. Previously. Dakar - I could live there. Abidjan - I could live there. Monrovia - I could live there. Conakry (Guinea) - I could ...no, never in a million years. Wouldn't wish on my Mother-in-Law. Another glass of wine as I'm editing this and I may rethink. "Gertrude, how about a holiday in Conakry, it's great...you and Harold would love it..."

Ghanaians are open and friendly. They want to know what you think of their country and where you're from. I don't say England. For conversational purposes, I tell Sierra Leone. There's usually a pause. A taxi driver the other day made the ghost sound from Scooby Doo. Whoooo.... Freetown. Ebola. I quickly changed tack and ask how things were in Ghana. Bad was the reply. Why? Power comes the response. Now when it comes to whinging and whining Ghana is right up there. Not quite in Guinea's league, but up there all the same.

They explain to me just how 'bad' things are. In some areas of Accra there's currently light for only 12 hours a day then nothing for 24 hours, and so on. All the government's fault, they say. They are useless, they say. The President will have it fixed by the end of the year, they say. You're lucky, I say. Come and live in Freetown for a week, I say. Then you'll have something to complain about. In fact, try Conakry for a long weekend. Oh, and my Mother-in-Law's in a home there, could you possibly visit...

I like Ghana a great deal. The country that's geographically the closest to the centre of the world (the notional centre, 0°, 0° is located nearby in the Atlantic Ocean). The powerhouse sub-regionally. A relatively wealthy country, certainly by African standards. Hence the current problems are hitting hard. They have high expectations and a burgeoning educated middle class. Some countries in the region can only dream of Ghana's success. No country is a land of milk and honey. Ghana is no exception, everything's relative. Most West African countries are similar in their reliance on natural resources.

'The Gold Coast' achieved independence from the United Kingdom in 1957, becoming the first sub-Saharan African nation to do so from European Colonialism. It became Ghana...

However, like many others, it's susceptible to commodity prices. Prices are down across several sectors. Gold is one example. Oh, and Ghana is the second largest cocoa producer in the world. Come on, let's fly south to Takoradi...

Short flight on 'White Knuckle Airways'. 25 minutes. We're now on the south coast of Ghana. Takoradi is one of the two major ports in the country. Timber, manganese, bauxite in the past, shipped out by train. The mothballed train station appears to have been suspended in time. Fascinating.



Now it's all about black gold. Oil. Ghana discovered oil in 2007 and is currently producing over 110,000 barrels a day. This is set to increase. The windfall for the government is significant.

I'm delighted to report Takoradi is a boom town. So it should be. Takoradi is the regions leading oil hub outside of Nigeria. Plenty of employment, proper infrastructure, good hotels, local companies supplying the oil sector, a significant port under expansion. All good. A boom town. There remain links to traditional industries, fishing... (need something like this in Basingstoke to provide some character).



An old Slave fort, of Dutch origin (1640)...



Finally, the last post I told you of Sally Hayfron Mugabe. Sally died in Harare 1992, aged 60. She came from Takoradi. She and Robert were both teachers. They were married 31 years. A son also died of malaria here, aged 3. As told to me, Mugabe last visited 2007, with his current wife, Grace. The story goes that she wasn't allowed over the thresh-hold when he called on his former family to pay his respects. Apparently quite a rumpus at the time. She sat in the car...

I've thoroughly enjoyed Ghana again. In the back catalogue, you'll find previous posts, featuring Accra and Tesano.

Back here in Freetown, the Ebola crisis is nearly done, only a matter of time. We've had eight straight days of zero new cases or deaths. A case two days ago broke the run. To be declared Ebola-free we need 42 consecutive days with zero new cases. As I say, only a matter of time.

Other good news as well. Air Chance recommences flights to Paris 30th June. Kenya Scareways, a crucial regional carrier, resumes in two weeks time. This will help open up the region. Life is gradually returning to normal. Within two months the country should be celebrating, similar to the scenes we witnessed in Liberia last weekend.

The 'Food Basket Appeal' has funds remaining. I plan to wrap it up with one further donation. Something involving children. I'd like to write a special post, just about the appeal. If possible featuring some of the folks and updating on what's happened to them since. Remember Yayah? Emmanuel Cummings? Nurse Isha? Many others. Something uplifting to mark the end of a tumultuous 12 months.

Where next? Hopefully back to the UK sometime next month. Senegal also a possibility for June. Dakar, I could live there. Senior Diva - just for you.

Follow on Twitter for more stuff and photos: @roadrunnertns













Saturday, 9 May 2015

Mayday, Mayday, Mayday...


A previous unfinished post I was working on over the recent holiday, hence the title. I'm currently in Accra. 'A Postcard From Ghana' in the works. Decided to finish-up this one first. Here goes...

A recent article made me think. Favourite feel-good moments? Was it really about the simple pleasures in life? Turned out it was. Apparently taken from a BUPA survey based on 2,000 replies.

Responses included; sleeping in a bed with fresh sheets, feeling the sun on your face, people saying ‘thank you’ or a random act of kindness by a stranger, a bargain at the sales, having a nice cup of tea (this was a British survey after all), dancing like no one is watching, freshly made bread, having time to yourself, and laughing so hard it hurts; these were among those simple pleasures.



















Got me thinking of simple pleasures in West Africa. I was discussing this with Senior Diva, who incidentally is letting this new hair thing go right to her head. Now sporting a ginger comb-over. Life and business in Sierra Leone presents a constant challenge, particularly over the past 12 months. What about those simple pleasures? The good bits? In no particular order, apart from the first one...

1. Electricity

2. Water coming out of the shower (Rigsby - take note)

3. Internet speed on fire, relative term

4. African sunrise every morning, realise how lucky I am

5. African sunset every evening, realise how lucky I am

6. The divas smiling faces, every morning without fail. Their laughs...

7. Running down Lumley Beach at dark O clock, just before first light. Seeing the Atlantic Ocean from somewhere in Freetown every single day






















8. The short drive to my run start point as Freetown begins a new day, listening to Kris MacCormack. Listen to Kris with the windows down stretching under the palm trees. It's dark, it's cool, then setting off along the waters edge - that's the exact moment...

9. The sound of ballistic rain on a tin roof in wet season and feeling secure, providing of course your house doesn't leak. However, the bad boys are more active in wet season. They once called on me in the middle of the night, late 2012. Took a new flat screen TV, a DVD player, my 'Little House on the Prairie' box set, and the air conditioning control unit. Left the TV remote behind. I was pretty upset, I was only half way through the box set... I did draw some comfort in the fact they couldn't change channels...

10. The unfailing and amazing happiness of Freetown residents, most of whom have little or nothing

11. This conversation I have most weeks at a certain Police checkpoint late on a Friday evening driving home;

"Good evening officer"
"Good evening Saah"
"How are you this evening?"
"I'm doing fine Saah, it's very cold" (about 23C every night)
"Officer, you and your colleagues are doing a great job, thank you"
"Thank you Saah, but we have no sugar for our tea"
"That's a pity, I wish you a good night. Keep warm"
"Goodnight Saah"
"Goodnight officer"

The officer in question has a chubby round face with a smile that could light up any room. He tries for 'something' every week (not necessarily sugar). I smile as I drive away thinking we'll do all this again next week. I'd miss it. I'd miss him

12. After nearly 4 years (come Sept), and for the first time, I have an apartment with a plumbed in washing machine. The distinctive double bing when a load finishes. Ahhh...now that's a real feel-good moment

13. Taking my once dirty sports kit out of the washing machine, holding to my face with both hands. Smelling it. Joyous! Hang on a minute, that sounds, er... a little... er, strange. Three and a half years of laundry being done on a washboard does this to one... I haven't taken to sniffing other peoples laundry yet, is that the next step? Johnny Admin?

14. Downloading a movie from iTunes in a week or less. When you finally reach that 4.5 GB, it's a real punch the air moment. Last evening was 'The Shawshank Redemption'. Always good to re watch a classic movie. The 5 day struggle is worthwhile, just to hear those classic words, 'get busy living, or get busy dying'. Not only the words, but the whole scene, the piano soundtrack; to be savoured even when you know what's coming next...

15. Laugh out loud moments in Freetown that sometimes lead to tears. Funniest place in the world... we laugh a lot...

16. Finally, and it could have been top. The day I leave to England. Time off. That 9 mile boat ride across the estuary to the airport. Boarding the plane. Traveling home to see family. Seeing 'O' for Organiser, 'H', & Cup Cake. CC is delighted to share her name with the recent birth of a Royal Princess.

There you have it. Tried to keep it to 5, then 10...



















'A Postcard From Ghana' is next up. The post is set in Takoradi, in the south of the country. Regular readers will be familiar with the cast of characters, and references, which frequent this blog. Rigsby, the Divas, the French, my mother-in-law (full moon the other night, she was pretty active), the Lebanese Chuckle Brothers, The Belgian, Belgium, Robert Mugabe, Taggart, Peter Pan, Our Man in Port Loko, Johnny Admin, Lifeline, past guest runners, and numerous others. I mention this because...

...well, and would you believe it, Robert Mugabe makes a return in the next post. Turns out he was a teacher in Takoradi, back in the day. He married Sally, a young Ghanaian teacher. They lost a 3 year old son here to Malaria. He couldn't attend the funeral, by this time he was in prison for 10 years. Sally remained loyal all the way through, she died in 1992. They were married 31 years. This came out at lunch the other day, what a story...  

Postscript: A favourite Mugabe joke to finish, from an earlier post last summer.

Barack Obama, David Cameron (congrats; couldn't have imagined inserting Ed Miliband into my joke) & Robert Mugabe are in a boat in the Atlantic, when suddenly the boat discovers a leak. They have only one life jacket. Obama says, "Let's do the democratic thing. Take a vote to see who gets the life jacket." They each write a name on a piece of paper and stuff it in a coffee can. Obama & Cameron get one vote each; Mugabe gets six.

Time to... get busy living...

Oh, and follow on Twitter, more photos, more stuff: @roadrunnertns











Friday, 17 April 2015

Just when you thought it was safe...


...to go back in the water. That we need a bigger boat. A tremendous shock happened yesterday. OK, not quite 'Jaws', but scary all the same. What could it be? Well, how about catching, completely by accident, your mother-in-law in her oversized bloomers? Sacre bleu. Last time I saw that much silk, I was dangling underneath it. Will undoubtedly have a lasting effect on me...

Let me try and push that frightening image, and thoughts of parachuting, completely to the back of my mind...

Let's instead return to 26th March. The day before lockdown. The second school donation. 40 more children. 40 more sets of text books. 40 more stationary packs. 40 more school uniforms.


Great news. A real turning point. Schools in Sierra Leone have been gradually reopening this past week. Including schools containing the 80 children we have assisted. Attendance countrywide has been patchy. Will take time to return to normal levels. Schools have been closed for 9 months because of Ebola.

A definite turning point, patchy or not. New cases recorded last week numbered just six. The lowest total for nearly a year.

However, we should not forget that in Sierra Leone nearly 4,000 people have died from Ebola. There's been over 12,000 cases. Heartbreakingly more than 9,000 children have been orphaned. The human cost has been incredibly high.

Let's get on with the school delivery. What about this little fellow? Let me introduce Emmanuel Cummings. Year 4. Confident, bright, and complete with his dad's waistcoat. Lovely welcome speech too. Tucked under Emmanuel's arm is my welcome gift. See final photo below. My turn as the Senegalese lottery winner.


As is custom we begin with prayers. Followed by succinct welcome statements. We had a good chairman today. The speakers focus on the importance of education. They mention the problems. Schools in poor repair. Poor hygiene and sanitation. Often no latrines. No running water. No electricity. Leaking roofs. Poor pay and incentives for teachers. Overcrowding. Sometimes 3 classes in the same room. Poor security, no perimeter fencing. Often two shifts of children a day. Young children working outside school to help support family budgets.

The positives. The children are a happy bunch, same as most places. They don't know what they don't have.


We have sufficient funds remaining for perhaps another 2 - 3 donations. We look forward to those. Never believed for one minute that we would endure this long. Thanks once again to everyone who has contributed and made this possible. Thanks as always to both divas. Talking of which, Senior Diva has miraculously grown hair since we started all this, and Baby Diva has a new member of the team arriving in August. Quite the 6 months...


Great work again as well by Violet from ‘Save the Needy Sierra Leone'. Such superb organisation, commitment, and good humour, especially at short notice. Thank you Violet.

Senior Diva above. Emmanuel, I know, I've been there...


As for me, I'm currently in UK enjoying Easter break. 3 weeks. Good rest. Good family times. Taggart, my tight-arsed Scottish neighbour, is in China cheering up the locals no doubt. Highlight of this break is tomorrow. Travelling to London by train. Reading vs. Arsenal; FA Cup semi final at Wembley. Reading's first since 1927. Taggart was in short trousers. Let's hope the wait is worth it. 'H' is pretty excited.

Next Wednesday (22nd April) return to Africa. A quick hello to Freetown, then to Ghana end of April. Looking forward to Accra. Couple of previous posts from there. Next one as well.

See you in Ghana.

Don’t forget to follow on Twitter: @roadrunnertns

P.S. Thanks Emmanuel...



Friday, 27 March 2015

‘Lockdown in Freetown 3… Latest Installment’

Two things happening. Yesterday we completed another school delivery. Second, a third lockdown began 0600 hrs this morning; we are confined to our homes for the next 72 hours. The first countrywide lockdown since last Sept. Unbelievably, that was 6 dark months ago. Wet season. Where’s the time gone? My road (The Loop), early this morning...



As covered in recent posts, we're no longer in the dark days of Aug - Dec. However, the last 10% of Ebola is proving stubborn. This drastic measure is meant to help us over the finishing line. The chequered flag means 42 days without a new case. These days Ebola’s reduced to isolated pockets and mini flare ups. The daily death toll has returned to single digits mostly, following an increase into the teens for a while. Same for new cases. We haven’t begun the count yet…

Even the UN has said this tragedy will be finished by August, across the sub region. Even the UN? Well, together with their cohorts, WHO & CDC, they haven’t been the most reliable throughout this crisis.

The Jeremy Clarkson rubbish. A fracas? Really?

Now this is a proper fracas. Sierra Leone has been in the news recently for the ‘removal’ of the Vice President. This saga, despite everything else happening in the country, rumbles on. Bodyguard of the VP dies from Ebola. VP quarantines himself. President fires VP. Government claims he isn’t a bona fide Muslim, and his Master’s Degree is bogus. VP refutes allegations. VP goes ‘missing’. VP claims his life is in danger. VP seeks political asylum in US Embassy, or elsewhere. President fires him again for seeking asylum and being absent from duty. Appoints a new VP. Critics claim unconstitutional. Opposition up in arms. Government sticking to its guns. Only in West Africa...

After watching the Cameron / Milliband ‘debate’ last evening (“Hell, yeah I’m tough”), which could've sent a glass eye to sleep, you realise the raw fascination of African politics. Never a dull moment in the pursuit of power.

Yesterday a mad scramble prepping for lockdown. I rarely cook in my apartment. I rarely shop. A shock to the system. So much to do. Was there credit on the meter for electricity (you never know, might be power)? When does DSTV (cable) run out? Need a phone recharge? Need Internet installed in my apartment prior to lockdown. You’ll remember I’ve recently moved. Divas - thanks as always. Could I really survive without you both? All lastminute.com. Enough protein?




In the September lockdown I was fortunate to spend 4 days at the Radisson. The ‘Aid Circus’ was starting to arrive, you could obtain 4 nights for $500 with plenty of extras. ‘Hi De Hi’ for a few days. Aerobics, water polo in the deck side pool, film matinees, tennis competition, knobbly knees, happy hour, and live music... quite surreal…  No such offers this time. The hotel is now full of the ‘Aid Circus’.

Talking of my meter. In Sierra Leone, what’s the difference between NPA (National Power Authority – meaning electricity) and an eclipse of the sun? Well, we’ve had an eclipse most recently…

Spending the first day of lockdown in my new apartment has been good. First 14 hours over. Imagine still being in Rigsby’s place? The landlord with no heart. The landlord with no compassion. Cockroach infested, mice everywhere. Last seen in Miami. A landlord who couldn’t give a mouse’s arse…. the guy should be in prison.

Excuse me, the sun is over the yardarm. Let me open a bottle of something (rat poison in the last place) as I fine tune this post. Cheers… good health… (SK - this to you and the boys in Miami)...



Thanks for reading the last post. Took the total viewings past 12,500. Some movement in the top 10. In fact, a new country tops the leaderboard. From the outset it’s been the UK. Now surpassed by the US. France has moved into the top 5. Zimbabwe slipping a place. Canada remains number 3, Sierra Leone at 4. New entry at number 10, Switzerland. Ghana drops out. Thanks to everyone, wherever you are reading.

Over the next couple of days, while lockdown continues, I’ll write up the second school delivery. 3 posts in 3 months, now 2 in 3 days. A wonderful day yesterday, photos like this… Emmanuel Cummings, of Year 2, chats with Senior Diva… (Emmanuel, I know, I've been there...).



Easter is coming. Fly out next Weds. April fool’s day. UK via Belgium. To my Belgian brothers who work at Brussels Airport, I say this… only kidding. Love Belgium.

Since the Sept lockdown and now, I’ve been home once, Christmas. ‘O’, ‘H’, & ‘Tea Cake’ - see you soon. And to my Mother-in-Law, I say this… ugh, see you next week…

Footnote: To friends and colleagues in Freetown, go well over lockdown..., and a special shout out to 'Ops' in Lunsar. Keep up the good work...

Lots more on Twitter: @roadrunnertns




Saturday, 21 March 2015

Education, Education, Education...


Education, Education, Education…


Before we start, let’s wrap up some loose ends. First, we have a new character. Ladies & gentlemen, I give you… ‘The Belgian’. You realise when you receive an email that begins, ‘Oi you’, you’re in trouble. ‘The Belgian’ took exception to some of my views. Let me provide balance by pointing out some interesting facts about Belgium. It’s about far more than beer, chocolate and Brussels being home to that value for money institution, The European Union.

Belgium’s the country that first introduced us to sax, as in saxophone of course; then later from the wind section… sprouts. Also, Napoleon met his final Waterloo here 1815, south of Brussels. OK, Belgium didn’t actually exist then. It did 30 years later though, when Karl Marx was inspired to write the Communist Manifesto. Obviously more to this country than first meets the eye…

We’ve all been at a dinner party when someone has said name a famous Belgian? Right? Perhaps at more highbrow parties where they shoot for three famous Belgians? Haven’t we? I’m going to try four, here we go…

… the tall fellow with the funny hair who occasionally plays for Manchester United quite poorly, what’s his name… Fellaini. Then there’s the chap who invented Bakelite … Leo Baekeland …. two more… easy, The Smurfs are from Belgium. One more…. come on, keep thinking…

Other loose ends. Well, Taggart, my miserly scrooge like Scottish next door neighbour, has really taken the wind out my sails this time. He’s only gone and made a second donation to the ‘Food Basket Appeal’ (FBA). A whole 25 Guineas & 10 Shillings this time.

A second time donation was also made last week by ‘Canadian Sumo’, a big … hearted N. American lawyer. He visited Sierra Leone in 2012 and broke one of our beds. CR, you’re welcome back any time my friend. Your support has been outstanding. Bring a reinforced hammock. Oh, and it was Senior Diva who reminded me of the collapsing bed escapade.

On a serious note, thank you both for those recent donations and to everyone who’s contributed so generously. The blog has raised over $12,600.

What you’re about to read cost around $1,000. Total spending from the fund is now $8.3k. We’ll keep going as long as we can. Every penny of this amount has been given by family, friends, and readers. I feel responsible. Every cent has been carefully spent. The change of emphasis is now to support education.

Two Fridays ago we made the first school delivery. Next one planned for this Thursday (26th). Three days before the donation we toured some of the schools. While at Huntingdon Primary (below), a church sponsored school in Goderich southeast Freetown, we couldn’t escape the constant sound of hammers on rocks. A distinctive sound in Freetown.

We already knew this was a deprived area. Poor children attend this school. Even then some are too poor to attend. The parents cannot afford the uniform, or the text books required. We followed the sound. Took us into an area with maybe 20 people breaking up rocks to sell. Most were children. Most were young. I was drawn to Kabba Conteh. He’s 9 years old. Same age as my daughter, ‘Tea Cake’. You might remember TC from a post last summer in the States. She wants a guest runner slot. She’s in training. She’s plenty to say, an apprentice diva in the making.

Kabba was sat cheerfully working away with his grandmother (below). He had a pleasant demeanour and a winning smile. I watched him for some time as I engaged with the family. I asked to take a couple of photos and in return bought three buckets of stones. I donated the stones back. Most times, as you walk away, you know you’ll never see these people again. Life just moves on. Bring a little cheer. Move on...



This time was different…

I should mention Violet from ‘Save the Needy Sierra Leone’ who did an amazing job organising everything. She was the star. The plan was to select 40 of the poorest children from a number of junior (primary) government schools in the area. We’d provide the text books they’d need for their respective year. Material for a school uniform, and stationary – exercise books, pencils, pens, rulers, rubbers, that sort of thing.



The ceremony took place at Agape School Hall, Goderich. It's 0930 hrs, and already sweltering. We began with prayers. Then a lovely welcome song from the children (below). This followed by an amusing skit by the children on why attending school is important. Some of us then said a few words and introduced ourselves. Belmon Renner, one of the schoolgirls, presented me with a bouquet of flowers. They went straight to Baby Diva to help celebrate some big news she has. This will be revealed in a future post, perhaps around August. Next the distribution by Mrs. Edith Kpendema, assisted by Natalie Cole (below in pink), our very own Senior Diva. Because this was a Friday both Divas were naturally dressed as Senegalese lottery winners.



The children came forward individually with huge smiles and collected their text books and stationary, and the cloth to make a uniform. A tailor was present to measure them. He will make the uniforms. Parents also attended, as well some volunteers from Violet’s organisation. Finally, everyone received a decent meal and a drink. An uplifting morning. $1,000 can do so much. 

Conditions in these schools; no running water, no power, no toilets, no secure perimeter, no meals in some schools. When the rains come these roofs will leak. Two shifts of classes usually; early morning until lunchtime, then the second shift. Sometimes three classes in the same room separated with dividers, the list goes on.

Despite everything the children are a happy bunch, like most kids most places. They don’t know of the things they don’t have. Schools have been closed since last June. Imagine this where you live.

Kabba Konteh. He turned about to be one of the 40 today. Now, this is one happy special little boy. He’s in Class 3 at Huntingdon Primary School. He has 8 siblings. If just one of them 'makes it'…



Seeing his face in this photo made it all feel worthwhile. This was completely unexpected. The children and invited guests had their meal and drink. We slipped away, Baby Diva with her bouquet, and drove back 30 minutes to the office. Some reflection on the way back…

Footnote 1: The schools are not opening at the end of March as planned. Probably September at the earliest. The final 10% of the curse of Ebola is proving stubborn. There’s another 3 day lockdown (the third one) beginning next Friday. The emergency measures have been extended until year end. The economy is in ruins. More in the next post…

Footnote 2: I’ve made it through without mentioning the French, my Mother-in-Law, or Robert Mugabe. How about I rectify this by mentioning at least 2 of them in one sentence.

So, what’s the difference between my Mother-in-Law and Robert Mugabe? Well, one is an elderly dictator who rules with a rod of iron. The other is… the President of Zimbabwe…

Footnote 3: Ha, that last famous Belgian… phew, have it… Tintin. Not nearly as difficult as I thought…

Footnote 4: ‘O’, I miss you…

Don’t forget to follow on Twitter: @roadrunnertns

No long gap to the next post this time, something to do on lockdown… see you real soon...

 

Sunday, 22 February 2015

'Early Morning Run in... Worst Cities in the World'

I recently discovered a report from the Economist global “liveability” study. The report listed the world's top 10 cities to live, and the ten worst. Apparently, they base the survey on how 'tolerable' it is to live in a particular place given crime levels, the threat of conflict, quality of medical care, levels of censorship, temperature, schools and transport links.

I always approach the ‘worst list’ with a little apprehension. Will Freetown be included? Shouldn't be. Not against this criteria. We all moan about Freetown. Every single day. We feel entitled. The Economist? They probably popped over for a couple of days, the sort of folk who’d moan there was no Wi-Fi in the Garden of Eden.

Freetown was omitted from the list. However, five African cities do fly the flag. Three from West Africa. Abidjan, Doula & Lagos. The worst city overall? Port Moresby. Been there a few times, pretty awful. 


















Come on though… how on earth can Damascus not be included? What about Juba? Kabul? Tripoli? Milton Keynes? Mogadishu? What about Basingstoke? Karachi?

How is Abidjan on the list? I like the city a lot...

The best cities? Unsurprisingly, most are in Canada & Australia. How can London not be near the top? Paris? What about Norwich?

I moved apartment last week. Only two miles away but to another world on Spur Loop. No setting mousetraps every evening. No more cockroaches. Fewer electricity/generator problems. No more, ‘the water bowser hasn’t turned up'. Rigsby, as bad as you were, I'm going to miss you. I’ve now inherited joint landlords. Perhaps not the most charismatic of fellows; but hey, let’s give the Chuckle Brothers a chance.


Spur Loop is an excellent road surface, smooth as a baby’s bottom, relatively speaking when compared to elsewhere in Freetown. Many are as rough as my Mother-in-Laws bum, probably. I have to be careful with the wording; the previous post remains with her solicitor.

























I’ve also received ‘fan mail’ from my neighbour, who pointed out that the ‘tight-arsed Scottish neighbour’ quip in the last post, should have been hyphenated when used as an offensive adjective. Sorted. Taggart also mentioned possible defamation of character and his solicitor and the potential impact on his career as a ‘Meals on Wheels’ driver within our local community.

I’ve mentioned Graham Greene before. His most acclaimed book featured Sierra Leone, ‘The Heart of the Matter’. He first came to Sierra Leone in 1933 with his cousin, Barbara Greene. He set off from Freetown for his travelogue to Liberia, ‘Journeys Without Maps’. Greene made a return visit in 1968. He said Freetown was a place for failures. Harsh? True? He wrote, “A home from home for men who had not encountered success at any turn of the long road and who no longer expected.” Greene was considered a great writer. ‘The Honorary Consul’ & ‘Our Man in Havana’ were among his other books...

Many British Army officers were inspired by Greene and wrote versions of his classic book. Memorable efforts such as, 'Clueless with a Map', 'Which Way Round is the Map', and the unforgettable 'Journeys with no Idea'.  

… to more serious matters. The Ebola gains continue. Cases are down nearly 90%. It was always likely the last 10% would be the most difficult. Sierra Leone remains the most affected, but improvement is everywhere. Strange how 11 new cases in a day and six dead is positive? Life in Africa is sadly cheap. Was it Lenin who said, one death is a tragedy, a million is a statistic.

Remember the hysteria in the US last year after a couple of reported cases. Remember WHO & CDC competing for the worse case scenario award. The people who made those dire predictions should be accountable. Businesses folded. Economies devastated. Many expatriates and foreign investors fled. Most airlines stopped flying entirely unnecessarily. Why? Fear of fear itself and crisis management by social media. We now have only one direct flight remaining to Europe. And, let’s face it, who wants to fly to Belgium? Steady on; I do in early April… home to the UK for Easter.

Here’s a sobering stat, 5,692 children in Sierra Leone have lost one parent, and 2,276 both parents. The devastation left behind is incredible. Recovery in so many aspects will be uneven. I hope the international community remains fully committed.

With this in mind, the Food Basket Appeal is shifting focus. Schools closed since last July. They are scheduled to begin reopening in the third week of March. A lovely lady, who once temped for me, helps in a registered organisation, ‘Save the Needy'. The FBA will donate Le 5m (~$1,000) of the remaining fund. We'll help schools along the peninsula, southeast of Freetown.

The money will help towards textbooks, exercise books, school supplies (pens, pencils etc.) & uniforms. There will be eight schools involved.