'Early Morning Run In... Tesano, Ghana'

First light: 0553 hrs
Time start: 0615 hrs
Time finish: 0708 hrs
Weather: 23C
Humidity: 78%
Circumstances: Thursday morning, business day, neighbourhood run & gym

No Victoria Falls. No Livingstone. No Harare. No Mugabe jokes. No running over Nelson Mandela Bridge. No Joburg. No guest runners.

Something different. A run with no 'sights', no outstanding history, or any real points of interest. An ordinary run, with ordinary people, in an ordinary neighbourhood. In fact, ordinary as it gets. Real life. I'm in Tesano. Ghana.

Different to Post 4, 'An Early Morning Run In Accra...' back 25th Feb this year. Plenty of other back reading including, Sierra Leone, Liberia, Senegal, Colombia, Guinea, London, and the unforgettable Hesket Newmarket... same link: www.roadrunnertns.blogspot.com

Other bits and photos: @roadrunnertns

Talking of photos. Some have mentioned including photos. Most requests being from ex army shipmates who I know have difficulty reading and much prefer pictures. Slaps - these are for you. Vic Falls from the road trip.

Today a short notice business trip to Ghana. Arrived back Freetown only last Friday following the memorable road trip to Southern Africa. JoBurg being the last post before Florida vacation next month - which should see posts from Orlando, Naples & Miami. Any potential guest runners / guides in these locales perhaps?

Tesano a residential area in west Accra between North Kaneshie & Achimota. Suburb was first inhabited by Lebanese who came for business. The origin, or so I'm told, means 'on a flat flat rock'. Anywhere where the Lebanese don't go? Must be the largest diaspora in the world relative to size.

Downtown Accra can be 20 mins away or 2 hours depending on time of day and traffic. My base is the Charleston Hotel. Excellent establishment with super management and staff. Great value and deservedly right up there on Trip Advisor. Thanks Julie and your wonderful team. See you later in the year. Here we go, let's take a look at Tesano...

Feeling good this morning. Smiling, thinking, plus good not having 'Lifeline' slowing me down. Turn right out of the hotel, of course head east into the rising sun. Beautiful morning. 23C already. The neighbourhood is waking slowly, hardly anyone around. No cars on these un-tarred minor roads. Great for running. The area is flat. Roads are a mixture of compacted sand and gravel. Favourite surface to run. You can hear each step as your shoe bites on the surface. A distinctive sound.

A few people now on the move, everyone cheerful, most say good morning or wave. Run past the impressive Tesano Baptist Church. Don't know the street names. No signs. There's the Tesano Sports Club. I'm aiming to finish here to squeeze a quick 20 mins in their gym. Neighbourhood has everything.

Push on heading north to a main road. Good pace this morning. The time spent at altitiude in Southern Africa perhaps. A road with more activity. More traffic, most probably heading for downtown Accra. Divas note, I kid you not, every second shop is a hair & nails salon. I know from my own SL divas that hair in West Africa is vitally important. Well, not in senior divas case - she remember is bald as a badgers bum. A distinctive West African look. First time I saw senior diva in a W. I. G. (don't ever say the word), it was a shock. She just popped it out of a bag and stuck it on her head to attend a funeral. She needed it to keep her hat on. Not only Whisky India Golf, there's also W. E. A. V. E (don't ever say the word), hair extensions I guess. Like I say, hair and nails is serious business.

On this mini high street there's a local Spar / 7-11 type shop. I ask Grace if she minds I take a quick snap with my phone. She smiles and says of course. Ghanaians are friendly. Over the road the local pub. Some pleasant smells around too, sweet coffee brewing, fresh bread... time to head back to the gym.

As I head back into the minor roads there's more activity. Plenty of children walking to school in small groups, all carrying books and wearing distinctive bright simple uniforms. Walking without adults, and some are young. A great deal of laughter and joy. These kids are happy. Then a bizarre sight, a policeman with a speed camera. I don't see any cars on these interior roads.

In southern Sudan a few years back I was traveling by vehicle in the oilfield areas between Heglig and Bentiu. The oilfield police waved me down which was strange. Mohammed, who I knew, said sorry Mr. Mark you are speeding. He waved his new toy through the window. He smiled broadly. It showed 84 kms. 4 kms over the speed limit. Bear in mind at the time there was a civil war. During my time 4 drilling rig attacks by SPLA rebels, a camp attack on the main oil facility, pipelines blown up, a helicopter shot at, landmines laid on the roads, and plenty of other incidents besides.

I asked Mohammed when did he get this new piece of equipment. The day before he replied. I told him his new machine could not be working correctly. I was not driving that fast. He just looked at me. Explains he must fine me the equivilant of $5 and give my name to the camp boss. Told him I had an idea. I would drive back and come down the road again to check his machine was indeed working properly. I pulled up next to him a second time. He looked puzzled. The machine showed 70 kms. There you go I said, the machine wasn't calibrated properly. Continued on my way. Pretty poor that - purchasing faulty equipment. Lucky for me though...

As I write about Sudan I think fleetingly about many ex colleagues and friends there, Mahmoud D. in particular. At this time of the year - Ramadan Kareem.

Head back onto the un-tarred roads, pick up the pace back to the sports club. They welcome me. I'm able to sign in as a guest from the hotel. Sly, who has arms bigger than my thighs, provides a quick brief. Just time for one quick exercise on each muscle group and a few abby dabby doobies. Jog back to the hotel as a cool down. I'm ready for the day.

Ready for eggs and coffee too. I have Samuel rebooked (post 4) as taxi driver for my downtown meetings. You may remember Samuel from the Accra post. Want to check back with him on the World Cup and the Ghana team, for which things ended rather ignominiously. Mind you, for all their travails they were the one team that come closest to beating Germany (WC Final later today). One of the best games, before the Ghanaians imploded into politics.

Footnote - I take breakfast with 'Good Morning Ghana' on in the background. Callers ringing in complaining about everything. All West African countries complain to some extent. Ghana takes to a whole new level. Everything is the governments fault. One caller says she had no light (meaning electricity) for 2 hours last evening. What was the government doing? I wanted to phone in and say come to Freetown for a week, you'll soon realise you've nothing to complain about. Ghana is a great country, extremely friendly hospitable people. However, they sure know how to whine.

Reminds me of another line from the Sudan days. Canadian expats. What's the difference between a Canadian expat and a jet engine? Eventually the jet engine stops whining....sorry to my Canuck friends...

A Sunday afternoon pleasure in Freetown writing this one, which I hadn't planned. This is wet season. Non-stop torrential rain outside, mixed in with incredible thunder and lightning. Pure fury. Another 3 months of wet season. 6 hours today and counting. Will be havoc outside - damage, mud slides, overflowing storm drains, blocked roads, trees down. Unrelenting...

Afternoons like this? Bunker down, fresh coffee, family size Toblerone from the fridge, a good book and perhaps a little writing. DSTV has gone down - phone the Ghanaian government...

Unless anything unexpected comes up - on to Florida next month...

Updates on Twitter: @roadrunnertns

'Early Morning Run in... Johannesburg'

Next stop Johannesburg. Northeastern South Africa. Population 3 million.

Let's begin with a chuckle. A joke not included in the three previous Zimbabwe posts. Barack Obama and David Cameron and Robert Mugabe are in a boat in the Atlantic, when suddenly the ship develops a leak. They have only one life jacket. Obama says, "Let's do the democratic thing. Take a vote to see who has the life jacket." They each write a name on a piece of paper and stuff it in a coffee can. Obama and Cameron have one vote each; Mugabe gets six.

A short pleasant flight from Harare yesterday. 'Lifeline' hires a Noddy car at the airport. Also a GPS. Essential to stay in the right areas. We won't be outrunning anything in Noddy.

The final post in this 2014 mini-series from Southern Africa. The trip has taken in Harare, Victoria Falls, and Bulawayo. Today Johannesburg completes an unforgettable road trip. 'Lifeline' is the guest runner for the 4th time.

The Joburg base is a private home in Westcliff. An extremely affluent suburb with views over the inner city and northern suburbs. Another guest to introduce. Meet 'Granite'.

Last evening was a wonderful one of African hospitality. Plenty of high quality South African wine quaffed. We enjoy a spirited conversation on a wide range of subjects, including: Andy Murray, his pushy mother, the World Cup, guilt or otherwise of Oscar P, Kevin Pietersen's sacking by England, Nelson Mandela, cricket, African politics, and Matt Damon's unsuitability, being a short arse, to play a back row rugby legend in the movie 'Invictus'. A lively evening...

Oh, not to forget, some planning for today's early morning run. You know it's a good evening when the run slides by an hour.

'Granite' kindly offers to drop 'Lifeline' and I downtown. We'll run back to Westcliff taking in some sights. Oh, forgot to mention the nibbles last evening. Biltong. The Boer used biltong during the war of the late 1800s. Food for travel (longlasting), and food for war (protein). Some say South Africans like only two things more than sunny skies and rugby. That's biltong & beer. This beautifully dried cured meat with a salty texture is perfect with cold beer. I'm hooked.

In amongst the fine wine I missed the briefing about the internal house alarm. Crime is a serious consideration in Joburg. Granite had said, "if nature calls at 0500 hrs use the guest suite's en-suite bathroom. Don't open the wrong door into the main house."

Sorry to everyone for the earlier than expected alarm.

0650 hrs. Glass of water. Quick laugh about the idiot who woke the whole house up two hours earlier. Into Granite's car. We're in the traffic flow to downtown before 0700 hrs. Jan Smuts Avenue is busy. 15 minutes later we're dropped in Newtown. A well-known cultural district, a bohemian feel with restaurants, museums, jazz clubs, theatres...

We quickly establish our bearings and run north to cross Nelson Mandela Bridge (below). It's cold. We feel the altitude for the first ten minutes. In two weeks is Nelson Mandela Day (18th July), his birthdate. He'd have been 96 years old. The great statesman and icon passed away 5-Dec 2013. So many quotes, I'll go with this one, "I am fundamentally an optimist. Whether that comes from nature or nurture, I cannot say. Part of being optimistic is keeping one’s head pointed toward the sun, one’s feet moving forward. There were many dark moments when my faith in humanity was sorely tested, but I would not and could not give myself up to despair. That way lays defeat and death."

This year also marks 20 years since South African gained full democracy from white minority rule. Apartheid was over in 1994.

Another guest runner appears. We're joined by a local lecturer for a few hundred metres, jogging alongside in his street clothes no less. A fantastic smile on his face. Thankfully we turn and head east up Ameshoff Street. He was the flying lecturer. He could move. We settle back into a steady groove up Constitution Hill.

Joburg theatre to the left. Now renamed after Nelson Mandela.  The giant billboard advertises Peter Pan opening in November. 'Second to the right, and straight on till morning'. Peter told Wendy this was the way to Neverland. A land of fairies. We're in South Africa. Haven't seen any fairies yet.

For us, it's first to the right and straight up Constitution Hill. Continue climbing Joubert Street.

Constitution Hill. What a view. Worth the ascent. We run straight into the Old Fort, first built in 1893. All happened right here, folks. It's more than the site of South Africa's Constitutional Court. There's some stunning modern architecture on this 100-acre site. This former prison complex held Gandhi, Luthuli, and Mandela (all Nobel Prize Winners), amongst numerous others. His 27 years in jail began right here.

We run a slow circuit of the raised fort perimeter. A high vantage point to see Joburg. Pause. Take a few snaps. Over to the east is Hillbrow. This suburb is more associated with crime than anything else. A hard area, even the Rottweilers, go around in pairs.

We work our way down from the high ground. Plenty of cheery bonhomie from those on foot also thumbs up from some drivers. I detect we're something of an oddity. Perhaps not a well known early morning running route? Down from the high ground onto Empire Road. Head west. Merge back onto Jan Smuts and begin heading north slightly uphill back to Westcliff. The training for Vic Falls paid off.

Run past our base - one more thing to do. 'The Steps'. 300m run down. Turn at the bottom and push back to the top as hard as possible. A final jog around Westcliff to warm down.

Here ends a beautiful road trip. Johannesburg has been fantastic for 36 hours; I want to return. A hearty thank you to 'Lifeline' and to all we've met along the way.

P.S. Thanks to 'Granite' for a bumper pack of Biltong for my hand luggage. I'm both savouring and rationing it...

'Early Morning Run in... Bulawayo'

First light: 0632 hrs
Time start: 0710 hrs
Time finish: 0802 hrs
Weather: 8C
Humidity: 36%
Altitude: 4,300ft
Circumstances: Tuesday morning, business day, downtown Bulawayo

Difficult to swap one of the seven wonders of the world for an industrial city in the hinterland of Zimbabwe. But, here we are in Matabeleland.

Yesterday drove southeast 4 and a half hours to Bulawayo. 435 kms. Second largest city in Zimbabwe. Population 650,000. Unsure what to expect...

'Lifeline' books us into the Bulawayo Club. Founded in 1895. Hidden gem on corner 4th Street & 8th Avenue. Old fashioned colonial elegant building steeped in history. Built in 1935, like staying in a museum. Throwback to another era, another time. The club has been lovingly maintained, great credit to the excellent management and staff.

Get straight into it this morning. Chilly. Let's go. 'Lifeline' needs no introduction. First guest runner to appear twice, now for the hat-trick. Out the front door, first run with little to no research. Which way? If in doubt always head east towards the rising sun. Something will turn-up. Altitude around 4,300 ft. Can feel a good run coming on.

Straight over the robots at the crossroads. Prominent statue of the late Vice-President Joshua Nkomo’s to my left. Died in 1999, accorded national hero status.

Might be early, but lots of activity. Street corners seem gathering places. Piles of newspapers on the ground with stones weighted on top. People glancing at the headlines. Glance down myself to see what's happening. People are wrapped against the chill. Some smoking and standing in small groups. These are people without jobs. Many of them. Others hurry about their business. Shops here open early, most by 0800 hrs.

Downtown Bulawayo seems shabby but functional. Well laid out but deteriorating. 'Lifeline' is moving awkwardly following his exertions in the half marathon 48 hours previously. City Hall ahead. Building looks good with neat lawns. Traders setting up using the freshly painted blue railings to display local art, usual African bric a brac, and an impressive array of fresh flowers.

Turn, still heading east, onto L.Takawira Ave. A straight road signposted Cairo 3,500 miles. On the other side of the roof another sign indicates Capetown 1,150 miles.

Run down the right side of L.Takawira. Traffic is light coming into town. Impressive park both sides of the road. Take a look at right half first. British and colonial in appearance reflecting the period when this green space was established. Bandstands, working fountains, memorials, and statues - some dating back to the Matabele Wars. Whilst the park may not be what it once was, I see park keepers at work. It's not being left to just rot. Crossover to the left side. More symbols of the past. Lakes, stream, a small gauge railway line, probably used to give youngsters rides. Many of the water features and streams are sadly overgrown. Imagine Bulawayo has higher priorities these days with public funds.

The park remains an area of tranquility, good to see young students sat in the old bandstand reading and studying. We see the National History Museum at the junction of Park Road. Opposite is the NGO, World Vision. Park Road is the best part of the city I've seen in the short time in town.

A little more on Bulawayo perhaps. Sits on a plain that marks the High-veld of Zimbabwe and close to the watershed between the Zambezi and Limpopo drainage basins. Twinned with Aberdeen, Scotland. I hear from home that my Scottish 'brothers' are enjoying England's rather quick World Cup exit. This has coincided with an uptick in their performances since wee Gordon Strachan took over. He said after they beat Iceland earlier this year, he was looking to arrange further games against... Walmart and Marks & Spencer.

Head north back towards the city noting the cricket academy. We circle the outfield also noting the Walnut Cafe for coffee later.

A broad smile as we run past the National Theatre. A big poster advertising, 'The Wizard of Oz', opening 30th July for 4 nights. Seems a little bizarre, but why not. I wish the production well. In fact, 'Lifeline' is doing a pretty good impression of 'Tin Man' this morning with his laboured running style, rounded off by his checked bermudas.

Right. Time to push on back to the Bulawayo Club and brekkie. Cross over R.Mugabe Way. Every town has at least one such road. Want to rename it, 'His Way or The Highway'. After this thought, which of course is a joke, it's past the Selbourne Hotel.

Heading west now, run past the Econet offices, one of the more impressive modern makeovers. Econet Wireless, a global business, was founded by its Chairman Strive Masiyiwa. Cell net coverage in Zimbabwe is excellent. My humble dealings with this company in Harare have been first rate. Mr. Masiywa is well known on the world business stage and demonstrates what can be achieved by Africa entrepreneurs. A Zimbabwean success story by any measure.

Arrive back to the Club. 52 minutes. One of the most enjoyable runs I've done. Enjoyed this one. Feel on a high. Later, after coffee at the Walnut and a discussion with locals, we realise can't head south to Rhodes grave, which was an original intent. Not enough time. Will take 3 hours there and back. Then due to roadworks another 7 hours to Harare. Too much night driving. Maybe after next years Vic Falls Half Marathon.

Rhodes is buried in the Matobo Hills. He died 1902, his body brought to Bulawayo by train. He and other early white pioneers like Leander Starr Jameson are buried at a site named World's View.

Well, that's all for this post. This amazing road trip concludes with a short visit to JoBurg. One more post to come... see you in South Africa...

Footnote: Following 7 hours back to Harare, last 2 hrs in the dark again, we come across the President's motorcade. Lots of vehicles (about 15), flashing lights, high speed maneuvers, and sirens. Local wags apparently refer to it as 'Bob And The Wailers'..., or so I'm told...

Breakfast in the club...

Victoria Falls Half Marathon

First light: 0635 hrs
Time start: 0715 hrs
Time finish: 0857 hrs
Weather: 12C
Humidity: 33%
Circumstances: 2014 Victoria Falls Half Marathon

"It has never been seen before by European eyes, but scenes so wonderful must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight." Livingstone's words in 1855. Difficult to better.

Not often you run one of the 7 wonders of the world. Not every day you run across Victoria Falls bridge into Zambia. Not every day you run through a cooling shower of mist rising from Devils Gorge. Not every day you run in a national park with armed wardens at elephant crossing points. Quite the event. Quite the run.

Arriving to the Falls was ...er, eventful. An arduous journey by vehicle. Distance 750 kms. 11 hours. Another late night of Harare hospitality meant a later than planned for departure. Moreover, the last 4 hours were driven after dark O clock. Not at all sensible. The risk of a chance encounter with Eddie the Elephant, or a host of other animals, increases significantly after last light. Great times at Amanzi's though.

0715 hrs. Race time. Field of around 700 for the half marathon. Tremendous atmosphere in town ahead of the start. With prize money down to 10th place a quality field was 
assembled. The full marathon set-off 45 minutes earlier at a speed I could barely sprint. To give you an idea of the quality of African athletes participating, the half marathon was won in under 65 mins. Mo Farah territory.

Perfect conditions today. Altitude feels fine after a few days in Zim. Low humidity and a pleasant temperature, together with a rising sun. Doesn't get much better.

Hooter sounds. Run north past the main entrance to Victoria Falls on the left. Through the customs post and into Zambia. A beautiful setting as the field stretches out over the 109 year old Victoria Falls bridge. When completed in 1905 it was the worlds largest cantilever construction. Cecil Rhodes had a vision of a railway line from the Cape to Cairo. A bridge was required over the Zambezi gorge. He died before it was completed. A true feat of engineering brilliance. These days more people throw themselves off the bridge than cross it.

People throw themselves off by bungee jump half way along the bridge. $135 to scare yourself senseless by plummeting 111m towards the Zambezi. What can possibly go wrong? Well, the cord snapped a couple of years back, miraculously the jumper survived. The world's press had a field day; crocodile infested waters, swept away by the rapids, the whole works. She managed to swim to the bank with her feet tied together and haul herself out with a broken collar bone and other injuries. She made a full recovery. Aussies are tough.

Funniest thing though was Zambia's tourism minister jumping a few days later to help assure the safety of the attraction. Bet he enjoyed that... Which British, US, Canadian, or Sierra Leonean Minister would you like to see hurtle towards the Zambezi to make a point? I'm trying to talk Lifeline into a tandem jump later this afternoon, we might be back later...

Run back across the bridge a second time and head towards the first water station at 5 kms. Plenty of runners taking selfies on the bridge. The amount of gear people run with these days is amazing. Music, headphones, head cameras, camera for the selfie, belt kits with water bottles and food, headbands, calve socks, huge watches... incredible... Suffice to say those Kenyans & Zims at the front of the field had no such paraphernalia.

I'm flying today, haven't run 5 kms at this speed for many a year. Go past 2 elephant crossing points. Huge elephant poo everywhere. Bigger poos than even yours Tea Cake. We see no elephants today.

Plenty of support on the road adds to the atmosphere. Lots of cars with stereos turned up full blaring out rock music. African drums playing incessantly in some of the lodges. All adds to the feel good factor.

Little more on Victoria Falls. Also known as 'Mosi oa-Tunya' (the smoke that thunders) is half way along the mighty Zambezi River. Africa's fourth largest at 2,700 kms (after Nile, Zaire and Niger respectively) and the only one that flows east into the Indian Ocean.​ Victoria Falls is approx 1,700m wide. It’s one and a half times wider than Niagara Falls, and twice the height, making it the biggest curtain of water in the world. My second time, it remains breathtaking.

Good time at 10 kms. Won't keep this pace up. 14 kms turn into the breeze. This is more realistic. More of a struggle now. At 16 kms going uphill. Pace now falling away quicker than the Iraqi army.

Last couple of kms. Final push. Can hear the music at the finishing point - Victoria Falls Primary School. Good turnout. Try to lift the pace for the last 400m around the grass track. Blow that. Just finish.

Waiting for Lifeline to finish. Teamwork. I head for breakfast, have a rub down, do some stretching, read the papers, have some coffee, hang on, ... quick, here he is...

In all seriousness, he's had a good run and extremely pleased with his time. Right, enough praise, into town for that big brekkie.

We've spent the previous 2 nights in a more humble lodge outside of town. Tonight is the reward. We book in the luxurious Victoria Falls Hotel. What a hotel. Expensive, even when sharing a twin room. Worth every cent though. Steeped in more than a 100 years of fascinating history. There's the Livingston Room, Stanley Room, a beautiful terrace for afternoon tea, and of course a bar with chilled glasses and cold Zambezi. Come on, we deserve it...

Photos and other bits on Twitter: @roadrunnertns

Roadshow now moves to Bulawayo tomorrow...

P.S. This post is dedicated to JH's 95 year old Mom in Canada. She was read the last post (Harare) and liked it. Apparently she's a tough critic... This is for you Mrs. H. I hope you enjoy it. Ask your son to tell you the story when he went down with malaria, following a trip to Kenya with me...

P.P.S. Divas, look busy. I'm back Friday...

'Early Morning Run in... Harare'

First light: 0626 hrs
Time start: 0708 hrs
Time finish: 0743 hrs
Weather: 7C
Humidity: 64%
Altitude: 3,000ft
Circumstances: Thursday morning, downtown Harare

Rather later than planned this morning. This owes a great deal to the fine Zimbabwean hospitality and friendship on display at 'Tin Roof' last evening. I'm certainly not a startled gazelle this morning. Please meet 'Lifeline'. He's my guest runner and guide. In fact, he's not exactly looking too spritely either.

We drive from the cottage in Chisipite to downtown, takes 10 mins. Lifeline is based here in Harare. Early disclaimer. The jokes are mine. The factual errors are his - to any Zimbabwean readers.

First up. President Robert Gabriel Mugabe. Mention him or not? Elephant in the blog? This is a regime, how can I put this, which doesn't take too kindly to 'publishing false news' (aka criticism). Can be a prisonable offense by all accounts. A mildly funny, non-political blog shouldn't be an issue. Right?

So mention him? Of course. Yes. Probably impossible to leave him out. For better or worse, he is Zimbabwe. Top banana for 34 years. July last year saw him begin his seventh term in office. Say what you like about him, and people say plenty, he’s still there. Seen them all off. An enduring political survivor. He won’t be joining us this morning though. I’ve heard he’s fit and trains regularly. It must work. 90 years old this year. Enjoys an old fashioned exercise regime, similar to Roy Hodgson’s, apparently shaped by his 11 years in prison. Mad Bob that is, not Mad Woy.

In 1980 Rhodesia became Zimbabwe. Zimba dza mabwe - Houses of Stone. Zimbabwe was colonised by Cecil John Rhodes in the late 1800s. The country was named Southern Rhodesia after him. More on Cecil when I get to Bulawayo.

I’ve been to Zim several times in the past. Longest was 3 months in 1995, a few shorter visits followed, last one in late 1999. Gap of 15 years. It’s wonderful to be back for this eagerly awaited trip.

Zimbabwe is a staggeringly beautiful country of 12 million people. All countries have history. Zim has in abundance, then some. A somewhat tumultuous past doesn't do the story justice.

We arrive and park at Harare Sports Club, the main cricket ground. Zimbabwe achieved test match status in 1992. They played their first match here against India. The past 22 years of cricket politics could fill a blog by itself. A case could be made the politics of the country and cricket are intertwined. Whatever the facts, Zimbabwe is coming back at test level after a self imposed exile, and they still manage to pull off the odd remarkable result in the one day format of the game. I wish them every success.

The cricket ground is beautifully appointed, sat next to the Harare Golf Club. Looks particularly good this morning with the sun rising up over the main stand. We set off at a gentle pace. This is about the sights, the feel, rather than training. Nothing now will make a difference to Sundays half marathon at Victoria Falls.

Begin heading east on Chancellor Ave. The bright sun takes the chill off this rather brisk morning. Compared to Freetown this is freezing. Many of the locals are dressed ready for the Antarctic. An African thing - there's some crazy headwear about. On the opposite side of the road is the President's residence, next door State House. Well armed guards dotted around the perimeter.

Head south along 7th ave. Traffic is fairly sparse and drives on the left. The business district awakes slowly. Downtown Harare is in good shape, a well organised grid system. Town planning at its best, back in the day. Nice looking park on the left. All roads are treelined.

7th Ave is interspersed with smaller roads and numerous crossroads. Most controlled by working robots (local name for traffic lights). Road names are a mixture of traditional colonists and prominent figures representing the struggle for independence. We cross Herbert Chitepo Ave, Livingstone Ave, Selous Ave, before turning right and heading west on Samola Machel Road. Samola Machel was a Mozambican military commander and leader of FRELIMO. He fought against the Portuguese which later lead to independence in 1975. The charismatic leader became Mozambique's first President. His wife Graca is a remarkable woman. 12 years after Samola's death, in a plane crash, she married Nelson Mandela in 1998. She was the first woman in the world to marry 2 Heads of State. She's still going strong, and the first African woman to become a British dame. This post isn't long enough to give justice to this incredible lady's achievements.

Easy pace this morning. A run where can you chat all the way. There's the 100 years old Meikles Hotel set back to the left, the ubiquitous Nandos on my right. Ah, the Reserve Bank of Zimbabwe. The bank is one of many impressive buildings in the downtown core. A few short years ago Zimbabwe officially had more millionaires than any other country. In fact, over 90% of the population was a millionaire. Unfortunately Zimbabwe's inflation was running at 231 million per cent in 2008.

The ban on foreign currency trading was lifted in early 2009. The ship stopped sinking. The US$ became, and remains the main currency. This is often referred to as Dollarisation. The problem is there's no change. No cents. Most prices are thus rounded up. Should change be required it's made up with bubblegum or a few sweets, or sometimes in coins of South African Rand. The local guy who made the gum apparently became a genuine millionaire as a result. Dragons Den would have passed on that one.

Talking of cents. Did you know the gangster rapper '50 Cent', or as they call him in Zimbabwe '$4 million dollars' was the country's favourite artist a few years back.

Whatever and wherever blame can be laid, it would seem Zimbabwe is recovering, or at least things have stopped getting worse. The economy remains under strain and money tight, but it's a million miles away from a failed state many might have you believe.

We dawdle west along Samola Machel, before heading north on Julius Nyerere Way. Some impressive buildings in this area. There's the Tourism Authority, which is a major source of foreign revenue. More on this from the Falls. Ahead is the ruling party's headquarters - Zanu pf. We've also seen impressive churches - 85% of Zimbabweans are Christian.

On the left is Harare Gardens, close to the Crowne Plaza Hotel. Plenty of greenery in the city. Head east now 4th Ave, before turning north for home. Back to the cricket ground. We walk on the pitch through an open gate for photos. Excellent run and just what the doctor ordered after last nights shenanigans.

Back in the vehicle. Decide to head to the 'Wild Geese' restaurant for breakfast. I know, what a life. 30 mins drive. A beautiful place in the most delightful grounds. Set-up a few years ago by the author of 'The Wild Geese'. Book became a second rate hammy late 70's mercenary movie full of wooden acting held together with a preposterous plot. One of those movies so bad that some consider it good. Even has something of a cult following. The signed photos on the wall evidence the good time the actors had making it - Richard Burton, Richard Harris, Roger Moore and others. They tried a remake in 2004. Another ridiculous script, 'The Wonga Plot'. This time an old Etonian, together with some South Africans, stop in Harare to buy weapons to overthrow a West African government for oil. Should have called have called it 'Wild Geese 2', perhaps why it ended so disastrously.

To Victoria Falls tomorrow...half marathon Sunday, Bulawayo Monday / Tuesday. 2 new posts coming up. JoBurg at the end of the week before returning to Freetown. See you all again real soon...

Photos and other bits on Twitter: @roadrunnertns

'Early Morning Run in... Dakar'

First light: 0640 hrs
Time start: 0615 hrs
Time finish: 0651 hrs
Weather: 22C
Humidity: 73%
Circumstances: Saturday morning, early in Dakar

Senegal. First time visit. A 75 minute flight north from Freetown. A world apart. Like coming to Paris, relatively speaking. Two things to quickly clear up...

First, one of my favourite lines when seeing someone extravagantly attired is, 'dressed like a Senegalese lottery winner'. You may remember an earlier post referencing my divas. Friday in Freetown is African Day. Means national dress. Essentially outfits complete with volume control. Eagle, aka Baldylocks, came in last Friday dressed as a strawberry cornetto. Here in Dakar everyday is Africa Day. People dress loud, proud,and bright. They look good.

Second, the world famous Paris-Dakar Rally? It no longer finishes in Dakar. Hasn't since being cancelled in 2008, due to security issues in neighbouring Mauritania. From 2009 the rally has been held in South America. The Paris-Santiago Rally doesn't sound right? Although 6 years since finishing in Dakar many local drivers are still auditioning. Including my local taxi driver, Tala. Scares the living daylights out of me every morning, afternoon and evening. We zig-zag through Dakar's streets listening to Edith Piaf CDs (Edith, the original French diva - SL divas, take note. Non je ne regrette rien). Tala's working hard on my French. I'd prefer him concentrating hard on the road. He tells me each morning, tapping his chest, he's a wolf. Certainly has me howling on occasions. In fact, he's a Wolof - largest tribe in Senegal. He's proud.

He mentioned yesterday he had 3 wives. I replied I've only one. More than ample. He was amused to hear that in Yemen you can say three times, "I divorce thee"; that's it, you're done and dusted. Moving swiftly along, time and tide...

Tremendous climate here. Wonderful breeze. Cooler than Freetown with less humidity. No rain. I depart Ibis Hotel heading east. Into the rising African sun. Never fails to lift the spirits. Streets are deserted. The impressive Central Bank of West Africa on my right. The French Embassy behind. Jog down to the Corniche Est. Turn right and head south. Port and docks to my left side. A sea of cranes, warehouses, containers and flatbed lorries. Drivers beginning to stir and huddle together. One shouts, 'C'est Bon'. I'm running this morning at Africa's most westerly point.

The corniche. An elevated road. Atlantic Ocean down below, drop of about 30 metres. Isn't it one of life's simple pleasures, running along a coastline? Still gets me every time. Some nice looking restaurants and hotels in this area. Lagon Un (Twitter for photos: @roadrunnertns) is a unique bar & restaurant. Definitely worth a visit. Several other joggers this morning. Some expats. Some Senegalese. A few local coffee trolleys opening, people out collecting fresh bread. Funny how some French legacies endure. Few motorbikes here. Mostly scooters. The French thing...

...reminds me. There were 2 cats. An English cat; named one-two-three. A French cat; he was called un-deux-trois. They decided to race across a canal. Naturally the English cat, one-two-three came first. The French cat, un-deux-trois, ...quatre cinq. Couldn't get through without a French joke.

Extremely pleasant running along the corniche. Slightly undulating, a few climbs to push up and over. Small coves below. Some rocky, some sandy. Senegal is light years ahead of Sierra Leone in development terms. Stability being a key factor. There have been over 45 successful putsches and unconstitutional changes of government in the 15 member states of ECOWAS since 1960. Sierra Leone is near the top of this league. Only Senegal, and one other country, have been spared this experience in the region. Bonus point for the other.

Nearly 20 mins done. Time to cut off the corniche. I head north up into the Embassy sector. Avenue Pasteur. British Embassy to my right. Next door the Ambassador's residence. Looks a nice set-up.
Lovely tree-lined boulevards. Henry, you've complained you've never received a namecheck. Well, you're in. Navigating these pavements with the trees and roots playing havoc reminds me of pushing you around Florence in a push-chair. You were cute and had Italian ladies kissing your feet and making a fuss of you. Ha, nobody would want to go near your pieds these days.

Head into a large roundabout. Nice buildings all round. The National Assembly. The African Art Museum. Take a right exit onto Rue Mandela. Tree lined again. All the way along to the main hospital in Dakar. L'Hopital Principal. Close by is the city morgue. I'm now in the dead centre of Dakar.

North, onto the most prestige road in the city. Avenue Leopold Senghor. The first president at independence in 1960. He ruled for 20 years. Known as the founding father of Senegal he lived until he was 95 years old. This before the modern trend where African Presidents knock a few years off and magically become younger. Senegal has recent experience of this. African footballers is another prime area for age reduction. This is a spectacular road. The beautifully appointed Presidential Palace on my right complete with ceremonial guards outside the gates. Pick up the pace now. In the distance I can start to see Place De L'Independence.

The centre point of old Dakar. Faded glory, but I can imagine this square back in the day. Must be nearly 300 m long in the shape of a large oblong. I do 2 laps taking in the early morning beat as the city awakes. Taxis everywhere. Nut sellers setting up. Newspapers being pegged up in the battered kiosks. People in local kaftans and red fezes. Could be a Tommy Cooper convention. Big international brands dominate the skyline - banks, insurance companies, airlines. There's the Pullman Hotel. Looks inviting. Was the Sofitel. One more lap and head out of the square east along Avenue Hassan II back to the Ibis.

As I warm down I reflect fondly on my time in Senegal (5 days). A city of contrasts. Brand new roads, expensive 4x4 vehicles, bridges, tunnels, shopping centres, sky scrapers, hotels, cranes, construction...then a horse and cart appears, some sheep run across the road. Plenty of shanty and poverty mixed in too, as you leave the centre. The result a compelling mix of modern and traditional. Although overwhelmingly (95%) Islamic few Senegalese women are veiled. This seems a comfortable country, one at ease, at least on first impressions.

Vous revoir bientot.

Other one for the bonus... Cape Verde.

'Early Morning Run in... Makeni, Sierra Leone'

Makeni, Sierra Leone

First light: 0650 hrs
Time start: 0635 hrs
Time finish: 0717 hrs
Weather: 25C
Humidity: 95%
Circumstances: Tuesday morning in the Northern Provinces

This was meant to be Colombia Part 2 - will be next up. Instead...

... a guest runner this morning. Not any old guest runner. An ex Royal Marine. 34 years service. Falklands vet. MBE. His call sign? Pivot 16-64. Pivot? Long story. 1664? Two things happened during this momentous year. Of significance, the Kronenbourg Brewery was founded in 1664 by Geronimus Hat in Strasbourg. Oh, and the Royal Marines modest history can be traced back to the same year. You'd probably like to hear more about Geronimus?

In the words of Eleanor Roosevelt, First Lady of the United States, in 1945, who said, "Marines I have seen around the world have the cleanest bodies, the filthiest minds, the highest morale, and the lowest morals of any group of animals I have ever seen." Pivot 16-64, I welcome you.

Today we're in Makeni. Fourth largest town in Sierra Leone. Largest town and economic centre of the Northern Province. The President is from Makeni. My first time here. We're 140 kms east of Freetown.

The Wusum Hotel. Our base. 0615 hrs. Already hot. Humidity right up there. A beautiful morning for a run in Africa. Pivot 1664 joins me. Hmmm, looks like he's carrying a bit of timber. This should be comfortable. Head away from the What's-up Hotel as I've taken to calling it. Teko Road heading north. This is a fast pace. Won't last. Will it? Come back Escargot - Post 7...

Roads in Makeni are in excellent shape. A prosperous town by Sierra Leone standards. Prosperous is relative, but this town is moving in the right direction. As well as roads, there's electricity pylons and radio masts. Lots of people on the move. The difference, they are moving with purpose. There are a number of huge mining operations nearby. Addax (bio fuels) alone employs nearly 3,000 people. The mining sector is helping drive the economic recovery of this poor West African country. Communities close to projects should become relative boom areas. Employment and services must go into local communities. The single biggest failing in the Niger Delta. Lessons must be learnt.

To the first roundabout. One mile. Head west to the big radio mast. Pace is still quick. Forget the added timber. Pivot can cover the ground. This isn't comfortable. Why don't I say something. It's an Army thing. Just can't. Suck it up...

Groups of young men walking and standing in groups. Mostly dressed in coveralls which designate where they work. All clutching or wearing ubiquitous brightly coloured safety helmets. Vans, trucks, buses pick-up the workers. The mood is good. All people ever really want is a job.

Okada's (bike taxi's) everywhere at this early hour. Our third colleague (JW) is tucked up in bed. He's the sensible one. Okada's outnumber vehicles by about 10 to 1. A funny van parked to our right. 'Mr. Key'. A battered van with an outsize key on top. About 1,000 words written on the van. A mobile website.

Ironically Pivot 1664 asks how I remember everything for the blog. How do I visualise it? I pant rapidly, I usually jog slowly to take it all in. Pace picks up. This is a blur. Was there a van...

Down a dip back heading north up to the main Magburakah Highway. Two miles in. Weather and pace hot. Over to our left the quite striking Mena Hills. Makeni tucks nicely into this backdrop.

Roadsweepers are also out in force before first light. The cleanest streets I've seen in Sierra Leone. At least 50 people in coveralls and high vis vests sweeping the streets. Some are digging out storm drains. Excellent. Local government functioning well. Money coming into this town.

We make it up the hill to the towns largest radio mast. Now on the main road. Turn east. No breeze. It's hot. Two days ago the first big rain of the year. Yesterday was wonderful. Clean air. It was cool. Unfortunately today back to normal. The first big rain? Lets you know the rains are coming. Next month. Heading back towards the centre of town.

As it gets lighter children are also on the move. I hear the common term for 'white man' in the north. The kids love shouting it out. I always smile and wave when I hear it. Aporto, aporto....aporto...I'm hearing it a lot now...

Also hearing plenty of call to prayer as first light comes. A good healthy mix of mosques and some nice looking churches. Haven't heard as much call to prayer in the other parts of the country I've been in.

Oh, oh. We're still going a good clip. Run straight past the turning back into Makeni. Now need a right turn somewhere. It's not happening. We reluctantly turn and head back East. Over 3 miles done. Aporto...aporto...

Into the town centre and the recently constructed clock tower. The centre piece. Pleased to see this reference point. I know it's just over a mile back to the Whats-up Hotel. Pace steadies. Pivot feeling this now. Thankfully. Where's Escargot when you need him.

Put in a Marine joke? People (Charlie M) will be expecting one. OK, reluctantly...

Dear Jane,

I have a problem. I have two brothers. One brother is a serving Royal Marine in the Navy, the other is serving life for a gruesome multiple murder. My mother died from insanity caused by syphilis when I was three years old. My sisters are prostitutes. My father is a drug dealer. Recently I met a girl with tasteful tattoos released from prison. I want to marry her. My problem. If I marry this girl, should I tell her about my brother who is a Marine?

Yours,
Concerned

A steady pace back to the hotel. Good to see those iron gates. Just under 43 mins. Warm down outside the hotel. I haven't run this fast in years. Turns out Pivot was feeling it just as much. Neither said anything. Some things never change.

Ha, I look over and see a functioning GT Bank cash point machine. A rarity. Johnny Admin story for you. In 2011 we were together in SL for the first time. Conducting an infra-structure assessment. We found an ATM in the centre of Freetown. A crowded noisy street. Let's see if we can actually draw cash on a credit card. He looks at me. I look at him. RHIP. Rank Has Its Privileges. He reluctantly, after a few 'get on with it', puts his card in. The loudest machine I've ever heard said, 'PLEASE INSERT YOUR SECRET PIN NUMBER'. JA was trying to tell the ATM to shush down. The street came to a standstill. The bedlam and background noise seemed to freeze. Was this ginger aporto really going to use this machine. People crowded to watch the entertainment. Flustered, he used the wrong pin. 'PLEASE INSERT YOUR SECRET PIN NUMBER' came the loud response. The locals thought this was hilarious. The crowd grew. After plenty of messing about he managed to obtain $100 in local currency. That's great, a $100 for you, what about me? We were there a while...strangest ATM I've ever seen...

Thoroughly enjoyed this run and your company Pivot 1664. Makeni has been a tremendous experience. Great team on this job. It's back to Freetown tomorrow after 5 days away. Divas look busy, get off your mobile phones...

Colombia Part 2 coming next...