While I was sleeping, it quickly became the 12-Sept 2023. I stretch on my balcony at the Cordoso Hotel, overlooking the Indian Ocean. I love this hotel. More than 100 years old. It's been a rebel HQ in the war. I imagine a place for buccaneers and spies in WW2. This place is solid, old school, retro charm, iconic, incredible sunsets, the best vantage point in the city, and sundowner central. Thank you, Gonçalo, for your hospitality.
In a few minutes, it'll be 07:00. I gently tap on the blacked-out window of a battered yellow taxi. The window slowly lowers to halfway. A wonderful smiley face and a dark green bobble hat greet me.
"Bom dia", I offer. I'm armed with only 4 phrases in Portuguese. Obrigardo, frango and boa sorte are the other three.
We're on the eastern coast of Africa, in Maputo. This city was known as Lourenço Marques until 1976 when it became independent from Portugal.
He can drive me downtown, he understands I have no local dib dobs, only Euros. He'll wait for me; he knows where the railway station, Independence Square, and the Iron House are. He pauses, and he tells me 5 Euros each way. I tell him I'll give him 10 each way and a bonus for a safe drive.
I jump in the front seat of Caro's humble taxi; we shake hands and drive downtown. Caro speaks a little English only because he spent 5 years in neighbouring South Africa some years back.
Caro tells me how his life changed 11 years ago when he was in a severe car accident. I note his gammy hand. The fall-out from the accident hasn't been resolved. He tells me it's complicated. I asked him not to have an accident today. We've nearly had 2, and we're only halfway to the railway station. Mind you, one was a frango running out from nowhere.
Taking photos in Moz is involved, especially of government buildings and infrastructure. I'll be discreet. I tell Caro I'll meet him at the 'Casa de Ferro' (the Iron House) near Independence Square in about 15 minutes. "Please wait for me, Caro."
This station was built in 1916 and remains operational. Its architecture is renowned. One of Gustave Eiffel's shipmates designed the famous dome. There are a few early-morning commuters. It's freezing, by the way. I should have thought this through. I stand out a little. Looking around, I quickly realise I'm the only one wearing blue shorts.
I leave the station and note Caro has moved on, hopefully to the next RV. I want to jog through this area towards Independence Square. This is the area where the movie Blood Diamond was filmed. Moz was chosen due to its similarities with Sierra Leone and its capital, Freetown.
The movies Ali and The Interpreter were also filmed here.
The Iron House was designed by Gustave Eiffel and built in Belgium in 1892. The Iron House was then shipped to Maputo. Eiffel knew a thing or two about iconic landmarks. It's still early, and I'm the only one here; a kind lady invites me inside to look around. I smile and decline. I take a few snaps and jog around Independence Square, and ta-dah, Caro is leaning on his car and beaming - good man. I am wondering about a giant metal house in a hot tropical city.
We're driving back along the Indian Ocean. Halfway back, I ask him to pull over; I'll jog back. I reckon it's only 2-3 clicks back to the Cordoso. Caro is reluctant to leave me; I tell him it's okay. I see a quick WhatsApp from an ex-Army friend. Sadly, another late mid-life crisis, another separation and marital strife. Des writes he's fighting fit again and has lost 110 lbs; he notes he couldn't be happier without her.
I paid Caro 20 Euros and a 10 Euro bonus and wish him boa sorte. We shake hands, and I enjoy a steady run back, looking forward to breakfast.
My first post in nearly 2 years. When this blog started in 2014, I was fond of calling myself a halfway to 100 type of guy. 10 years later, I am approaching 60, albeit from the wrong direction. This means entering 'sniper alley'; as my old and long-retired drill sergeant says, anything can get you at any time - get on with life. There's only so much sand left in the hourglass. In that spirit, a Christmas post coming from Berlin…
